The
Spirit That Beckons … 2002
Part 1 - Weather
The fifty five mile passage north from Harrisville to Presque Isle
Harbor along Michigan’s NE coastline required motoring and more than
once my thoughts drifted back two days to the strong southerly breeze
that blew the day after we arrived from Texas. I’d never found
favorable winds for this leg… so wasn’t disappointed… but someday the
law of averages will be kind and provide good sail on the first leg of
a summer cruise.
Though forecast had been for thunderstorms to start late in the
evening, we had been graced with several small squalls during the
afternoon but they hadn’t impeded our northering. At
Presque Isle marina we took temporary dockage and enjoyed a nice meal
at the restaurant followed by ice cream from the store eaten as we
carried ice back to the boat. With no sign of bad weather, and
enough daylight remaining, Lin headed to the showers. She
had hardly disappeared within when distant rumblings were heard and I
wished us on our way to anchorage in the large harbor/bay.
Ayla, my Sheltie dog and I were walking and turned back to the
boat,
which needed additional dock lines if we stayed in the marina. As
we neared, Lin exited the showers and as we had a very short way to the
anchorage location, there seemed time before the storm hit.
The Danforth bow anchor was set and holding just prior to onset of the
leading edge of the storm. Within seconds, large water drops
followed and seconds more… a deluge of rain and high wind was upon us
chasing us to the dryness of the cabin. My depth sounder is
a combo unit with GPS, which mounts on a stud either side of the cabin
bulkhead. It had been retrieved inside so that the depth could be
monitored. With high wind and rain pummeling the boat , I watched
the sounder to ensure that we weren’t dragging anchor. It
alternated between 12-13 feet, normal as the boat swings on her
rode. Perhaps a minute went by with the 12-13 feet holding so I
relaxed, and took a cabin seat.
It was near dusk when we anchored and the storm had added to the
darkness. Looking for shore cabins to confirm my confidence that
we weren’t dragging… I noted their lighted windows. In an
instant, I knew something was wrong…. the cabins were too far
distant. We were dragging anchor… I hadn’t realized the bay
bottom was such uniform depth.
Lurching to the cockpit, the wind was so strong that it was driving
R&R sideways with the anchor rode at nearly a right angle.
Wind loading must have been enormous. Driven rain was stinging my
face with pellets that at first I thought was hail. A quick
glance showed that we had drug two-thirds the way across the three
quarter mile bay. These observations were all secondary to the
primary effort that was decided the moment that I saw the cabin lights…
the Bruce anchor had to be set as quickly as possible.
It was in the port cockpit locker and as always, ready for quick
deployment. The bitter end of the rode emerged from under the
coil with its loop to throw over a winch. The anchor and chain flowed
easily from the locker and was eased over the windward coaming.
As soon as it was on the bottom, rode was played out and I determined
to cleat off when half the coil was gone.
Standing there prepared to cleat the rode, there was a moment to
assess. Though it had drug, the bow anchor had not broken
out. Had it, we likely would now be on the rocks of the leeward
side of the bay. It had drug… perhaps 600 yards, a long way not
to break out or have the anchor rode cut on rock or bottom debris.
I chastised myself, as I knew that the Bruce was a better holding
anchor than the Danforth and should have been set first as the storm
closed on us. Both should have been set before seeking the
shelter of the cabin.
I felt foolish, for not knowing that the bay was so flat and having
allowed the sounder to falsely lull me to a feeling of safety when in
fact, we were in peril. I felt guilty for leaving the
safety of the marina simply to meet my personal preferences towards the
freedoms felt at anchor. I gave thanks for the shore side cabin
lights that gave the warning. Thanks for the bow anchor not
breaking out and for the Bruce’s readiness to deploy. But, these
were only fleeting thoughts…as my attention was focused on the loose
rode and cleating it when the necessary rode had payed out. Then,
as suddenly as the high wind had started, it abated. The leading
edge of the front had moved east. I stood there relieved and
soaked, holding the slack rode of the Bruce laying only 5 yards
off. The rocks of the lee shore were yet visible in the waning
light. The safety of my boat had been challenged… more than ever
before.
Weather is always a part of sailing. For the mariner, surviving
is the word of choice when recalling its extremes.
Part 2 - More Weather
Every cruiser has or will spend time waiting on weather. This has
been a year with more than usual. After the evening storm our
first night out, we lay at anchor the next day do to thunderstorm
threats as the passage from Presque Isle Harbor through De Tour Passage
is a long leg across open water. A few years previous on the same
passage, lightning had struck so close to the boat. The passage
was made without incident on our third day… though again with winds
ahead, it required motoring. The fourth day we journeyed
west to the Les Cheneaux Islands and arrived tired late in the evening
and took anchorage within a sheltered bay near the east entrance.
The morning of our fifth day found us meandering thru the sheltered
waters of the islands towards Hessel.
Small
Island
of the Les
Cheaneaux Islands
(called The Snows by natives)
Nearing, we grasped the
extent of wind velocity in Hessel’s more open
bay. A barge skipper unloading a cable-laying piece of equipment
lamented that a tractor was supposed to be moved also, but conditions
too severe and this in the bay. Our intention had been to make a
gas stop at Hessel and work west to Mackinaw Island but doing so
included a good distance on Lake Huron's open water.
Winds were now westerly at 25 mph and building. Forecast for the
next two days are gale force at 35-50 mph. Plans to head west are
abandoned and we retire to a café for lunch followed by some
shopping in the small village after which we retrace our morning path
back to the same anchorage as the previous night. Two anchors are
set and we prepare for rain by setting the all weather hatch cover.
Winds increase during the night along with rainsqualls. The use
of two anchors holds R&R from sailing on her rode and makes
the anchorage comfortable in the small well protected bay. With
pancakes on the griddle, the sound of an approaching outboard shortly
brings a gentleman alongside in an inflatable. He explains that
he took his sailboat to the marina yesterday and that his dock is empty
and we are welcome to use it and borrow a car if we would like. I
am greatly moved by such hospitality, but the thought of moving to a
leeward dock in this wind isn’t considerable. I explain
that we lie with two good ground tackle and an anchor alarm to relieve
him of possible concern about his leeward docks and party boat.
If winds subside during the day… we may take his hospitality and share
a visit.
Waking early the seventh day, gale warnings have been dropped with
winds subsided to 25 mph westerlies. Doable… I wake Lin, and we
prepare to depart. It will be a wild ride, but we have had very
little sailing this cruise and I’m eager. It will be a
sixty-five mile starboard broad reach in a breeze with probable five
foot swell. The main is set double reefed and we traverse the
mile of inlet to open water. Soon after land effect is cleared…
we are broached twice with the boat moving fast and tripping over
herself first under double reefed main and jib, and then under main
only. I decide to go with headsail and drop the main. Doing
so will make helming much easier but will require slowing the boat to
keep from overloading the forestay. Often my self imposed speed
limit of 6 mph is reached with only half the 110 exposed. Limiting the
speed has removed further likelyhood of broaching. Next time
these
conditions exist.... I may try to keep the main up by use of a warp to
slow the boat and steady the helm.
Auto helms have a hard time with a broad reach. When a quartering
sea encounters the rudder, the combination of rudder stall and the
impact of the swell against the blade spin the boat windward. To
prevent this, anticipatory helming is required. This means that
as a sea approaches the stern, the rudder needs to be veined so as to
accept the sea without impacting the rudder, and as soon as cleared…
the rudder shifted back to course as the rudder regains lift. The
auto helm is reactive and can’t do this, so the day offers a long
twelve-hour run with no breaks from the helm. We arrive tired and
take anchorage again in Presque Isle Harbor.
Part 3 - Even More Weather
Our last days plans include my sister and brother in law, and starts
with a pretty sunrise.
Sunrise the last
morning of cruise 2002
They are waiting for us
when we enter the marina and join us for the
55-mile run south to Harrisville. The weather again starts to
threaten as light rain falls as we motor out of the
marina. Nearing the outer harbor buoy, I note a
wall cloud east of the Harbor and point out a small funnel.
Shortly, the funnel touches down to produce a waterspout a few miles
east of us. The wall cloud lingers for two hours and spurns up to
four spouts at a time and as many as seven tentacles.
Can is outer marker - Presque Isle Harbor
The spout is between us and a Lake Freighter with its bow and stern
visible on each side of the spout
The other boats are sport fishers for Salmon
My mind drifts occasionally to the many natural experiences witnessed
while cruising. Some are weather phenomenon while others are
plant or animal life. A few years ago, one was even cosmic as I
witnessed my first view of an exploding meteor during the night portion
of a ninety-mile crossing of Lake Huron from Manitoulin Island to
Harrisville. Last year, we had the encounter with the black
bear swimming across Baie Fine. These natuaral events, all
serve to renew the spirit that beckons to come and share the outdoor
world… particularly wind and water.