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Helm handling is important to me and the 250 when I first purchased her did not have a friendly helm. The problems were obviously more than sail trim and boat balance.

Many sub systems in a boat have their own balance issues, and this is true for the rudder.  An unbalanced rudder requires all effort to move it come from the helmsman.  On a large rudder surface, this can require considerable effort and result in a heavy helm.  Balancing places some area ahead of the hinge point and thus allows water flow to assist and thus lighten the helm.  In essence, it balances the load on the pintles much like a teeter totter.  While a fully balanced rudder is fairly mushy but easy to turn, a good compromise for a high aspect - high lift rudder is a partial balance.  Below are the steps to obtain that with the 2nd generation beaching rudder.

Rudder torque was so excessive on my boat that pulling out of hard turns made use of the autopilot impossible.  Fortunately, the fix was not difficult.  It is accomplished by raking the lower portion of the rudder forward which is fairly easy to do by milling some relief to the frame of the rudder head.  The pictures shows the area milled from the rudder head to allow the rudder to swing forward.   This mod also requires converting the hold down system by doing away with the rivet-detent system that after some wear, allowed the rudder to trail aft and contribute to the rudders unbalanced condition.  

Many owners have likely changed to the 3rd generation (offered only in a blade) but I like the beaching rudder because of its greater lift and only partial balance. These yield full control, but yet some feedback without excessive torque.  The beaching design also offers forgiveness for a grounding and the ability to get thru skinny water.  Note: Remember, that a beaching rudder should not be used to helm the boat in an aft raked position as it will produce far too much torque on the steering system.  While raised for shoal waters...  steering should be done by the outboard motor.