Interior Finish
I know Catalina uses
and recommends Target Coatings for the interior finish of our boats.
However, none of their distributors are close. What does everybody else
use on the interior? Color? Water/oil
base? Number of coats?
Thanks,
Bert
At Ease
#442
I also did not
want to go through mail order, but when I checked last year it seemed that the
only way to get the Target Brand was direct from Target Coatings at
1-800-752-9922. You can also check out
their website at http://www.targetcoatings.com
. They were very efficient and the order
was shipped right away.
John,
Conventional
oil-based varnish and non moisture-curing polyurethane do not have the same
aggressive solvent that Rexthane does. They have a more mild solvent that is less
likely to lift the factory finish on the sole boards. I have not tried to apply Rexthane
directly over the factory-finished sole boards and so I cannot say for sure
that lifting would occur. You could do a
test by brushing on a coat of Rexthane over a
square-foot area and wait an hour to see if it lifts or softens the factory
applied varnish.
However, even if
you pass this test and no lifting occurs, there is no guarantee that you won't
have a different problem later on. If
the coatings are incompatible, such as with
water-based and solvent-based varnish, then the bond between them will be
weak. This weak bond can cause the
topcoat to peel over time as the boards are walked on and as they expand and
contract with changes in weather. This
is called "inter-coat adhesion failure" and is likely the problem
encountered by Bruce Pugh. You are
always better off completely removing the old finish whenever you are switching
to a different type of coating.
Joe Kujawski
C-320 #129 SummerCamp
Another
consideration when refinishing is called "lifting". Lifting occurs when
the new coating acts like a stripper and wrinkles or dissolves the old existing
coating. Rexthane
is a high performance coating and contains strong solvents that may wrinkle and
dissolve a standard quality existing varnish.
This is especially likely if the old finish is water-based, as I understand
is the case with Catalina factory-applied interior wood finishes.
Therefore, upgrade
to Rexthane or another high performance solvent-based
finish only if you completely remove the old finish through sanding or chemical
stripping.
Completely
removing the old finish via sanding can be problematic with the sole boards and
cabin doors in particular because they are not solid teak but rather a thin
teak veneer over marine plywood. While
this is great for the stability of the boards and resistance to warping and
cracking of the boards, it does make it challenging to sand off all the old finish
without sanding through the teak veneer.
The cabin steps, on the other hand, have a much thicker top veneer of
teak and completely sanding off all the old finish was no problem. I expect the galley fiddles and door frames throughout
the cabin are solid wood and should be no problem to sand off the old finish.
The actual flat door surfaces are thin veneer over plywood and therefore you
need to use caution when sanding. It can
be done, but you just need to be careful with the sander, or sand by hand to
avoid sanding through the veneer. If you
do sand through the veneer in a spot, then it's not the end of the world, you
would just need to stain the exposed plywood prior to varnishing so it matches
the rest of the veneer. You would lose the
continuity of the veneer grain, but as long as it's just a small area, your
goof would likely be hard to notice.
For more
information on Rexthane, go to
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/industrial-marine/cs/spring00/page6.asp
For more
information of Shark Grip, go to
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/apps/pickpros/SWDisplay.asp?ProdID=486
Last month, I
refinished my steps leading from the cockpit to the cabin. I am quite pleased
with the results.
One feature I
added was a non-skid texture to the finish because my crew and I have taken
slips and falls on these steps when they are wet.
Here's what I
did:
I removed the
four teak steps from the stainless steel frame.
Next, I sanded off all the old finish using an orbital palm sander,
first with 50-grit followed by 100-grit sandpaper. I then vacuumed all sanding dust from the
steps and then wiped them with a rag saturated with thinner to remove any
remaining dust.
I have had
excellent results using a finish made by Sherwin-Williams called Rexthane Polyurethane Varnish. This is a true cross-linking moisture-cure varnish
that gets as tough and as hard as a catalyzed polyurethane,
but requires no catalyst and no mixing.
It uses moisture in the air as it's catalyst. It is sold for concrete warehouse floors,
wooden workbench tops and laboratory counter tops. I have used it on my boat to varnish my teak stove
cover, my ensign pole and the undersides of my sole boards. This stuff is tough! I first discovered it's
tough properties on a wooden paddle I used with my 17' daysailer
where it got used and abused for 15 years with little wear or even loss of
gloss. I had the same results when I
used it on a wooden workbench top.
On my steps, I
reduced the first coat of Rexthane 25% with it's special reducer to use it as a sealer coat. Reducing the first coat of Rexthane gives it a thin viscosity like water and allows it
to penetrate deeply into the wood which maximizes adhesion and brings out the
full beauty of the wood grain. Another advantage of Rexthane
is that it dries to recoat in 4 to 6 hours (depending on humidity, higher
humidity = faster cure), not the 24 to 48 hours for typical marine spar
varnishes which dry by solvent evaporation, not moisture cure.
After letting
the sealer coat dry for 4 hours, I brushed on the second coat full-bodied,
without reducing. Rexthane
is high-solids and gives a built-up look in a coat or two that would require
multiple coats of conventional varnish.
The third coat
is where I added the non-skid. I did not
want to use sand because sand is ugly to the eye, non-uniform, and does not
hold up well. Instead I used a texture
additive called "Shark Grip" which I also purchased at
Sherwin-Williams. Shark Grip is very
fine, light weight, porous plastic spheres which resembles baby powder. When mixed with paint or varnish, Shark Grip
stays in suspension and when dry, provides an attractive, uniform, transparent
texture that feels like shark skin. The
full grain of the wood is still visible because Shark
Grip itself is
transparent and absorbs the Rexthane. Because it actually absorbs the varnish
(unlike sand), Shark Grip holds up better and does not wear off and come loose
like sand does.
I apologize for
being long winded about this. I was
planning on doing the write up anyway because my steps turned out so well. The color is a perfect match to the original,
the texture is grippier than sand but nearly invisible. To me, this is a great solution which does
not require a lot of time and money, but puts materials technology to work to
solve a problem.
I happen to have
some paint paddle samples that I made up with this system as a test before
doing my steps. If you or any listee wants, give me your mailing address and I will mail
one to you.
Any questions, let me know.
Joe Kujawski
C-320 #129 SummerCamp
Target Coatings
is found at http://targetcoatings.com
<http://targetcoatings.com/>.
You can save 10%
by ordering on the web site: But the smallest can is 32oz.
They changed the
name of the Product described below. It
is now called: OXFORD HYBRID SATIN VARNISH (7200)
"Oxford
Interior/Exterior Varnish is formulated to provide a durable, multi-use coating
for interior and exterior applications such as cottage furniture, windows,
doors and restoration refinishing. Easy to brush or spray right from the
can."
Cheers
Dick Walker C-320 WindWalker
II
When you use the
Target finish I think you will conclude that it is made for spray
application. That means; it's thin, it
does not "hang" very well (runs), goes on with a brush but leaves
bubbles.
My suggestion is
to buy a pad painter and vacuum out all the little bristles that are left over
from manufacture. Stir the product DO
NOT shake. Work where there is little or
no draft. Spread it on thin, use many
coats. Wipe the entire surface to get it
evenly coated... there will be bubbles, wait 1-3 min. as you lightly lay out
the finish with your pad, evening out the stroke lines and waiting for the
slightest amount of drag from the pad. This
is when you can expect that the foam bubbles will disappear. Do not continue brushing ANY more than you
have to or you will begin wiping in streaks that you'll have to sand out. There is little or no smell... you can work
in the house. I found the matte floor
finish quite glossy, for a matte but it looks great. If it's humid it takes two hours before re-coating,
less in dry conditions. You'll love the
results because your sanding and preparation will be better than a factory
could be expected to do. Good Luck
Rick, Echo #488
Most of the
varnish used on the inside wood is a water based varnish made by Target
Coatings. It can be ordered directly
from Catalina or from Target Coatings at 1-800-752-9922. Ask for WB2025 Interior Matte Finish Finish. It is a
water based varnish which dries quickly and is (more) environmentally
friendly. I recommend buying from Target
rather than Catalina (I've done both).
Catalina will repackage what you purchase from a larger quantity since
they buy in bulk. Problem was that they
used a paint can unsuitable for a water based product and in time it rusted on
the inside ruining what I
had left.
Larry WindSwept #246
T
his is from our web
site.....
Catalina Yachts
Interior Varnish
Application Data
Sheet for Gloss (7100) & Satin (7200)
Published By:
Target Coatings,
Inc.
Telephone: 800-752-9922
Int’l: 201-804-0993
Fax: 201-939-0518
WWW: http://www.targetcoatings.com
Email: info@targetcoatings.com
Summary:
Catalina
Interior Varnish is a water-based, alkyd modified urethane varnish that is
designed for use on all interior and indirect exposure exterior wood components,
soles and kit parts. Catalina Interior
Varnish is non-flammable and cleans up with water. When cured, Catalina Interior Varnish will provide
a durable coating ideal for refinishing and touch-up repairs.
Direction for
Use:
1. Ensure that all surfaces to be varnished
are thoroughly cleaned of all oils, waxes, salt build-up and general
contamination. Wash area to be varnished
with a mild water/detergent blend, then rinse with
plain, clear water. Follow-up with a light wipe down with denatured alcohol to
remove waxes and polishes.
2. Depending on the extent of repair or
refinishing that is required, fine sand specific area with stearate-free
sandpaper such as 3M® 216u or 236u Gold sandpaper. For removal of runs or sags
use 600-grit. For light, small scratches
use 400-grit. For deeper scratches or dings, use 220-grit, moving up to 320
then 400-grit. Remove sanding dust with
a water-dampened cotton cloth or cheesecloth. DO NOT USE TRADITIONAL OIL/WAX
TACK CLOTHES.
3. If the color of the teak is lighter then
the surrounding areas when sanded prior to finishing with Catalina Varnish,
color match with universal dyes and pigments in Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna and
Vandyke Brown to adjust to color match. You will have to perform a swatch test to
ensure color consistency prior to applying.
All woods vary in color tone.
4. Using a soft, synthetic bristle brush*,
apply Catalina Varnish to repair area as required. Reduce Catalina Varnish with water upwards of
25% by liquid volume to control viscosity and dry time of the varnish. Catalina Varnish can be use undiluted or
reduced for spray applications.
5. Allow each coat to dry for a minimum of 2
hours before fine sanding and applying additional coats. Sanding between each coat is not required if the
last coat has dried for LESS then 48 hours.
If this time frame has lapsed, fine sand the last coat of Catalina
Varnish with 600-grit sandpaper to promote inter-coat adhesion.
6. Once fully cured (200 hours at
70°F/50RH), Catalina Varnish can be wet-sanded, rubbed or polished to a variety
of sheen’s using traditional techniques. 3M® finesse-It Polishes or Meguires® polishes can be used to increase gloss and to
protect from scratches. Using various grades of bronze wool or synthetic rubbing
pads can lower the sheen of Catalina Varnish. DO NOT USE STEEL WOOL. Maintain Catalina Varnish with a mild glass
cleaner or highly diluted all purpose cleaner.
DO NOT USE HOUSEHOLD-TYPE SPRAY WAXES, OIL SOAPS, POLISHES (PLEDGE®) OR
OTHER SILICONE BASED POLISHES.
Clean-Up:
Clean all
brushes and tools with warm water and mild detergent. Rinse thoroughly with fresh water and store
according to manufacturer suggestion.
Recommended
Brushes*:
Do not use
traditional badger brushes or other natural fiber bristles. Only use top
quality, synthetic bristle brushes made from Taklon®
or Chinex®. Do
not use house paint-type brushes. These
brushes hold too much varnish and will cause excessive film formation defect.
Recommended
brushes are artist-style acrylic or watercolor brushes used for fine arts
applications commonly found in art/hobby supply stores. Brush sizes ranging from 1/16th inch to 3.0
inches are recommended depending on size and scope of repair or finishing
schedule. Acrylic Brushes manufactured
by DaVinci® Brush, Lowell-Cornell® and Windsor
Newton® are highly recommended.
For more
information please contact:
Catalina Yachts,
Inc.
818-884-7700
Cheers,
Dick Walker
619.435.8986
Cabin Sole
My cabin floor is starting
to look a bit tired and I am thinking about replacing it. Has anyone done this
before? Any hints or problems?
Cheers - and Seasons
Greetings from
Alec Blanc
FIGMENT II #212
Lochaber Watersports
Ballachulish
I also did not want to go
through mail order, but when I checked last year it seemed that the only way to
get the Target Brand was direct from Target Coatings at 1-800-752-9922. You can also check out their website at http://www.targetcoatings.com . They were very efficient and the order was shipped
right away.
John,
Conventional oil-based
varnish and non moisture-curing polyurethane do not have the same aggressive
solvent that Rexthane does. They have a more mild solvent that is less
likely to lift the factory finish on the sole boards. I have not tried to apply Rexthane
directly over the factory-finished sole boards and so I cannot say for sure
that lifting would occur. You could do a
test by brushing on a coat of Rexthane over a
square-foot area and wait an hour to see if it lifts or softens the factory
applied varnish.
However, even if you pass
this test and no lifting occurs, there is no guarantee that you won't have a
different problem later on. If the
coatings are incompatible, such as with water-based and solvent-based varnish,
then the bond between them will be weak.
This weak bond can cause the topcoat to peel over time as the boards are
walked on and as they expand and contract with changes in weather. This is called "inter-coat adhesion
failure" and is likely the problem encountered by Bruce Pugh. You are always better off completely removing
the old finish whenever you are switching to a different type of coating.
Joe Kujawski
C-320 #129 SummerCamp
lec,
I just refinished the sole
on my boat this year, I wanted to get to it before it
required a major effort. I lightly roughed up the old finish with a scouch 3M sanding pad, then applied
3 coats of Minwax Helmsmen Spar Urethane Semi Gloss. THe floor looks good and the finish is staying addheared to the original finish with out a problem. ( I took the sole out of the boat and did each pice seperatly) I did the stairs
the same way about 3 years ago as a test case, and they are doing good.
Jim Mills
Elusive II, 209
Cabin Sole Varnish
What varnish or material
would you suggest for a mature C320's cabin sole/floor? It is a veneer surface and I think it is the
original factory finish now.
I have noted Target's matte
floor finish and a durable spar varnish suggested in posts of last winter.
Thanks, Rollie
Gates
1995 C320 #182
Buckeye II
I can only tell you that I
tried sanding the factory finish down thoroughly but short of removing it all, and applying a matt finish interior varnish over
it. This did not go well. So I recommend either full removal of factory
finish or using the Target water based varnish.
Fred
Amante #392
Fred,
Can you be specific about
what didn't go well? Did you use a
Polyurethane
matt finish varnish? What specific problems
did you have?
Graeme
Debonda #485
I used a high quality marine
polyurethane satin finish. It
"balled-up"
In spots. I've never had that experience before and I
have to attribute it to the remnants of the water-based coating underneath.
Fred
Amante #392
Fred,
A professional painter told
me this should not happen, even if the polyurethane was applied over moderately
sanded water-base varnish – is it possible that there was grease or wax causing
the polyurethane to ball-up? I may
tackle this project this weekend.
Rollie
Buckeye II
#182
Rollie,
No way there was any grease,
oil or wax on the surface. I can't
explain why it behaved as it did, but the results, while usable, were not
good. I did more than
"moderate" sanding, However, you might try thorough sanding,
then a good washing with mineral spirits to get grease/oil off, then acetone to
get any wax off before varnishing. You
might have to sand again after the wash if the mineral spirits raise the grain.
Good luck. Please let me know how you handle the task
and what your
Results are.
Fred
Amante #392
Fred,
Given your and the
Tuckerman's expereince, I am inclined to use the
Target - inferior
water-based varnish approach. Would you
do that if you had it to do over again?
Graeme, what would you say
to this question?
Regards, Rollie
Arthur,
I received your email
directly from you, however I have replied on the list as I thought it maybe of
interest to others.
I wouldn't think that I am
an expert on varnish. Here in
My only experience with
varnishing so far is the walls for the head and rear cabin facing the main
cabin and also the dividing board across the engine separating the two engine
hatches and the companionway steps. I
lightly sanded with 120 grit and used a gloss
single-pack polyurethane. I gave the
walls three coats and I am really pleased with the results.
I found a little book in a
university library. I think it was call
"Boat
Refinishing"
by Don Casey. It was an excellent book on how to
refinish. I
notice Don Casey has articles on
the sailnet site.
I have done one part of the
floor. You definately need to remove all trace of the
old coating and make sure you have even coloring of the timber before applying
a new coat otherwise the final fiish will look really
patchy. I used a polyurethane satin finish which was excellent but a lot of
work went into preparation
Don
Sei Sui
I have varnished the
"bilge cover" only as a test before I do the rest of the sole. I used
a gloss single-pack polyurethane and the result looks
good. I only lightly sanded the original
surface with 120 grit before I varnished.
I like the look of the
gloss. I notice my preference here is a
little different from most other members on the list.
The only problem I had when
I did this section of sole was: I had very small bubbles (have to look closely
to see them). I haven't experienced this before. I have read about varnishing and this problem
could be from either sanding with too course a paper
or that the brush wasn't in good condition.
The brush I used had
hardened a little since the last time I used it. By repeatedly flexing the bristles
it appeared to become soft again and I thought it was OK. Since then, I heard a tip from a shipwright
to brush the "china" brush bristles with a wire brush before using
it.
I have a few dark areas on
one panel of the sole. I think they are caused by water from the shower getting
out onto the main cabin sole and under the original varnish. I am considering removing these dark areas by
stripping all the old varnish off and then using a teak cleaner and brightener,
then revarnishing again with polyurethane.
It is a bit of a scary
process as I don't know the final colour, or if it
will be so light that I will have to strip all the other sole panels to match.
Can anyone give me advise on removing dark areas of the sole?