Changing Racor Filter
Opinions on changing filters are like the nose: everyone has one.
I had to re-read Herb's part about the fuel cutoff valve a couple of times to realize that as a "cutoff valve" he turns it on to stop the fuel. In my mind, I turn the valve off to stop the fuel. Either way, you don't want fuel to flow in the line when opening the Racor unit.
I don't concern myself with the screw-on bottom until I get the filter off. To do that, I first loosen the filter slightly but not enough to leak. Then, I place a small plastic tub under the filter, unscrew it and drop it into the tub. Dump the rest of the fuel, top and bottom, and remove the bottom part. Be sure to clean well the bottom part. Take the black "O" ring out from the bottom part, wet it well with fuel, replace it and screw onto the new filter hand tight. Be sure you can remove the bottom by hand at this point. Wet out the new seal with fuel, fill the new cartridge nearly to the top with fuel and screw it into place, also hand tight. Open the fuel line shutoff. (Filling the new cartridge with fuel means that much less fuel to pump from the tank, and much less fuel to dispose of.)
My engine is a Perkins M30 so the bleeding procedure may be different; but, if you have the hand pump on the Racor, I can bleed the entire line to the secondary filter from the Racor. As Herb described, loosen the bleed screw on the secondary (on Perkins it is a hex bolt; you can tell if this is the right one because a couple of threads down there is a hole through the screw. When you can see the hole, it's unscrewed enough.) Of course, use plenty of rags or absorbant towels. Pump the Racor pump until only solid stream of fuel comes from the bleed screw, and close it. I have never had to bleed the HP pump using this procedure, and I've never bothered with the lift pump as it has it's own set of issues.
Warren & Pattie Updike
C320, #62, 1994, "Warr De Mar"
Frog Mortar Creek,
Chris,
I'd suggest that you change at least once a year, I do mine twice. 1) turn on the fuel cutoff, this is located in the stern acess area. 2) Place a lot of paper towels around the primary filter area, I place a baby diaper under the filter. 3) drain the primary filter from the bottom 4) I use a filter wrench to remove the filter. 5) On my filter the bottom assembly is almost impossible to get off, I place it in a vice and then use the wrench to remove 6) Follow the directions to replace the new filter 7) Again a lot of paper towels under the secondary filter, remove ,discard old replace with new 8) now that everything is replaced and tightened turn fuel cutoff back to off 9) Everyone bleeds the system differently, this is how I have done it for 8 seasons: I use an oil suction pump, I remove the bleed screw that is on the banjo assembly. This is located just to the right and slightly higher than the secondary filter in the center of what looks like a banjo. With the screw removed I
use the pump to suck the fuel through the system, when I see a steady stream I stop, replace the screw but do not thighten. Then use the manual pump to pump until you see a steady stream(no bubbles) coming from the area of the screw. Tighten the screw , clean up , make sure everything is tight, then start the engine. Check for leaks. done
Good Luck,
Herb Creech
Cloud Chaser #606
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Chris Holt" <oldman1030@hotmail.com>
> I have a newbie question.
> I have owned my boat for two seasons now and I still have the pending task of
> changing my racor filter and the internal fuel filter on the Yanmar but just
> haven't gotten around to it.
>
> Can anybody provide me a list of steps of how to successfully replace it without
> getting fuel in the boat and how to bleed the lines, etc?
> I have hull #447 with the Japanese Yanmar (3GM30F).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris
> #447