Chapter 11

When I left Denver I went first to Cheyenne, where I met Michael J. Gorman and Liverpool Tony; I had met them in Nevada several years before. They remembered me, and as they were westbound and my company was agreeable to them, we traveled together .I felt the need for companionship more than ever before because of my unfortunate love affair, and welcomed theirs with gratitude. They were true Nomads of the road, moving slowly from town to town with no particular destination in mind. Any place that was large enough to provide them with a few handouts and a few dimes with which to buy whiteline suited them to a T. We stopped for a day or two at practically every town between Cheyenne and Pocatello. We stayed at Pocatello a week and left one night on the deck of a passenger train. From. our place on top of one of the baggage cars, we could see two other tramps back on the Pullmans. We had tucked the legs of our trousers into our shoe tops to keep out cinders, and were laying with our heads toward the rear of the train. When we were about five miles out of Pocatello I saw a lantern, followed by a man, swing up onto the deck. He went toward the two tramps, crouching as he walked. I saw one of the tramps rise, and a moment later I saw the lantern and the man who carried it go over the side of the train. There was only one conclusion I could draw from the incident, i.e. that the man with the lantern was a shack and that he had either fallen or been pushed off the train. I felt sure the shack had been killed, for the train was going about forty miles an hour. The tramp who had risen lay down again, and I turned around and crept toward the engine until my head was beside Michael's, and I told him what I had seen. About half an hour later the train stopped at American Falls and the three of us climbed down, while the other two tramps remained on top. We figured that the shack would be missed and an alarm sent out, so we kept out of sight until the train pulled out. We decided it would be better to return to Pocatello; we could prove, if necessary, that we had been there for the past week, as nobody had seen us deck the passenger train.

About midnight, an eastbound freight pulled in and stopped for water. The cars were all sealed, so we rode the top; and when the train slowed down as it entered the Pocatello yards, we climbed down the ladders and dropped off. We thought it best to give the Union Pacific a wide berth for a while and go to California via the Central Pacific; so about an hour later we boarded the train that had brought us from American Falls and rode it to McCannon Junction. Here, we hoped to catch a train to Ogden, but we caught no train that night, nor the next day either. There was only one train a day, a mixed passenger and freight, and the shacks spotted us as we tried to board it, so it was no go. That afternoon, a westbound freight shunted three coke-filled box cars onto a side track, and we noted that they were carded for Ogden. The next morning found us buried in "Pittsburgh feathers" up to our necks in one end of a car, while the Ogden train was being made up. When the train pulled out, we dug out and lay on top of the coke but there was no position in which to travel in comfort. It was like riding on a bed of broken glass, and when the train made its first stop we were very glad to pile out.

We had come about 40 miles, and were at the entrance to the Cache Valley. The valley was known to western tramps as "poultice valley" because, when begged for food, the farmers' wives gave tramps mostly bread and milk. The small village where we stopped was named Copenhagen, although I can't find it now on any map or timetable. I do remember Tony singing, when he saw the name of the station:
Copenhagen was taken, ya ya,
Copenhagen was taken, ya ya.
And all the good people
Came down from the steeple,
Copenhagen was taken, ya ya, ya ya.

The Cache Valley in Utah is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. It is flanked by mountains on the east and west, and I would guess it to be about 80 miles long and 20 miles wide. Practically all of its inhabitants at that time were Mormons; and if one's religion forms the basis of one's character, then the Mormon religion deserves to be ranked with the best. I have never known a more kindly, friendly, generous and hospitable class of people than those I met there that summer. Considering that they were fully aware that we, and the possible hundred or more tramps that imposed on their generosity each summer, were parasites who frequently stole the best of their fruits of toil and even the clothing from their washlines, it is to be marveled at that they didn't tar and feather us.

Though we stayed in the valley for four or five weeks, slowly hiking from village to village. at no time were any of us refused a meal, and never did anyone ask us to split wood to earn it. They seemed to live in a world of their own, bounded by their majestic Wasatch Mountains, and to depend on strangers for most of their news of the outside world. A few of them subscribed to the Deseret Times, an ultraconservative sheet whose pages were almost exclusively given over to local news. Many times, as I sat at their kitchen tables "scoffing" the delicious food they so cheerfully gave us, the women and children of all ages would gather about me and ask questions about the outside world, with which they were evidently unfamiliar.

Money was unobtainable. Even the few stores, except one or two in the sizeable town of Brigham, could not change a dollar for anything but script issued by Zion's Cooperative Mercantile Institute. The bank at Brigham appeared to be the only place in the valley where money, as we know it, could be obtained. The bank would exchange money for script for a small charge.

Michael and Tony, deprived of their beer and whiteline, put on weight and seemed to enjoy their enforced abstinence. When sober, Michael loved to recite poems, of which he had memorized quite a few. His favorites were The Raven, The Prisoner of Chillon, and a third which began:

"'Twas midnight. In his guarded tent
The Turk lay dreaming of the hour
When Greece, with knee in suppliance bent
Would tremble at his power."

Michael J. was a typical Irishman, about forty-five, and a very good-looking man. He had a splendid voice with a trace of brogue in it, and a good sense of dramatic delivery. He had written a number of what he called "Tramp Poems", which he took great delight in reciting when he was half slopped. The two which follow are the only ones I can remember, though there were several others in like vein:

Old Johnson was a rubberneck
As elastic as could be.
He was always at the depot, just
To see what he could see.

One day he saw a freight train
Waiting orders on the track,
And there he spied a tramperman
Who was hiding from the shack.

He rubbered round this tramperman
And nearly lost his eyes
And, stepping back to call the shack,
He stumbled o'er some ties.

As Johnson tumbled o'er the ties
He fell both hard and flat.
The tramperman reached out his hand
And stole his watch and hat.

The fall, it stunned old Johnson,
But he very soon awoke,
And gaping up and down the track
Could barely see the smoke

Made by the train he's rubbered at
When o'er those ties he fell.
He cursed and swore and raved and tore
And wished all tramps in Hell.

But when he found that he was robbed
It made his rubber sore,
He vowed, away from trains he'd keep

Perhaps the most dramatic of Michael's effusions was this ballad:

"'Twas in an old Q boxcar
A dying moocher lay,
Watching patiently the shadows
Steal o'er the ebbing day.
He thought about his past career,
His sorrows, joys and pains,
Of how he'd fooled both cons and shacks
While riding on their trains.
And as he thought, he tried to laugh
But it made him gasp for breath. He'll soon be cold in death.

Around him in the twilight
Some sloppy moochers lay,
Rushing the can, and wond'ring
If he'd live to see next day.
One handed him the beer can
But the sick tramp turned away.
He turned to where, beside him,
A four-bit Mickey lay,
Seized it with trembling fingers,
Raised high upon his bed,
And with last expiring effort
To the wond'ring moochers said:

Here's to old King Whiteline,
I've drank it all my life.
It lightens all our sorrows,
It's all good tramps' delight.
Plant a Mickey in my coffin
When you place me in the ground,
For it will come in handy
When the Judgement trump shall sound.
For old-time friends will meet there
And this four-bit Mickey plant
Will nerve us to our duty
As in the line we stand.

And when we meet Saint Peter
Taking tickets at the gate,
As he reads my tramping record
At me his head he'll shake.
That shake, to one who's sober
Means going down below,
But with my Whiteline jag on,
I will not have it so.
For I'll make a foxy hideout
Near the Garden that is God's,
And when the train goes through those gates
I'll be riding on the rods!"

I must have heard Michael recite this poem a hundred times, yet it was never twice the same. He was always tinkering with its phrasing, and I think he considered it his masterpiece. He told me that he was born in Dublin and came to this country when he was twelve. He had learned to read and write, but little else.

I learned that Tony had lived in London and was taken to Liverpool when he was ten years old. He had received no schooling, but had been apprenticed to a tailor, from whom he ran away when he was sixteen. He shipped out of Liverpool as a messboy on an English tramp steamer, and deserted when he reached New York.

Tony had a decided Cockney accent. He also liked to recite poetry but, being unable to read, was limited to what he could learn by word of mouth. His favorites were songs and poems of a lugubrious nature, like "The Stowaway", "The Boston Burglar", "The Ship that Never Returned", and such like. Despite his small size he had a deep bass voice, and could get all the low notes in "Rocked in the Cradle of the Deep". I can recall only one of his Cockney verse

The bloody bleedin' sparrow went
Up the blawsted bloomin' spout.
The bloomin' bloody rain came,
And washed the sparrow out.

The blawsted bloomin' sun came,
And dried away the rain,
And the bloody bleedin' sparrow
Went up the spout again."

We shuttled back and forth between Ogden and Salt Lake City for a week and then headed for California. Several times, during the first three weeks of our stay in Utah, I had to overcome the urge to return to Denver and make up with Ella, but I finally resolved to stay away for at least a year. As is usual in such cases of blighted love, after a year had passed I realized that I couldn't be happy with her because confidence in her fidelity would be lacking.

We stayed in California until the spring of 1899. I no longer cared to make money and made no attempt to revive any form of peddling, being content to drift along from day to day. I could still mooch two or three dollars a day without much effort, and as I spent nothing for liquor I always had more than enough for my needs. I contributed much more than my share to the general pot because Michael and Tony, being much older than I and drunk half the time, were unable to mooch more than a dollar a day - if that much. We met a large number of tramps, most of whom were known to Michael and Tony, but there were many whom I had heard of but never met. One of them, called "Glims", was a spectacle peddler who carried a case containing an eye-testing outfit in addition to his stock in trade. He would come to the jungles or tramps' hangouts after two or three days peddling among the farmers, throw thirty or forty dollars on the ground or the floor of the hangout, and tell the bunch to slop it up. He would stay paralyzed drunk until the money was gone and then take off again, to return a few days later and repeat the performance. On these occasions Tony was in his glory. He didn't care for the whiteline most of the tramps drank, and when possible he would get a keg of beer and stay with it until it was gone.

Two other tramps I met that winter were remarkable for what they could carve with a pocketknife. One was called "Kiwa Jack", and he specialized in carving fans and putting full-rigged ships into empty beer bottles. The fans were of all sizes. A few were what he called "Six-Deckers", and required a full day to make. They were carved out of one piece of wood, the largest fan being at the back and the other five progressively smaller, forming a steplike structure. He decorated them with ribbons and bronze paint and found a ready market for them in saloons, sometimes getting as much as ten dollars for an extra large one. I once watched him put a rigged ship into a long gallon-sized bottle. It was a special order for which he received twenty-five dollars, and it took him only two days.

The other tramp was called "Pincers"; he carved wooden pincers and chains. He would take a stick of sugarpine or spruce about five feet long by one and a half inches square, and from it carve a linked chain about eight feet long without a break in it. It was a much more tedious job than fan carving, and did not pay nearly so well.

Tony, Michael and I started north in April. We stopped in the larger towns between Oakland and Seattle, but little worthy of mention happened. We spent most of the summer in the northwest through Oregon, Washington, Montana and Idaho without adventure or misadventure, other than being arrested several times for begging and given twenty-four hour floaters to get out of town. Michael and I could hardly tear Tony away from a town in Idaho, named Weiser, where there was a small brewery. A person could get a skuttle of suds there for the mere asking, provided he didn't ask too often. Tony must have made a hit with one of the brewery workmen, for he was soused for almost a week.

We met two other tramps there who stood out in my memory. "Michigan Blacky" was a swarthy, quarrelsome fellow who later that summer earned and received a ten-year sentence at Walla Walla for attempting to rape a woman who let him into her kitchen to feed him. The other was slender, about thirty years old, and bore the Monicker "Leadville Jimmy." He had only one eye, and wore a black patch over the socket of the other, which had been destroyed in some manner. He was a quiet, unassuming fellow who loved his beer as much as Tony did. I met him again that summer in Pendleton, Ore., where he offered me several gold rings and a "Super" watch to peddle for him. I recalled the "Jiggers" episode, and declined. Several years later, I read an article in a San Francisco newspaper in which he was mentioned as being a friend of Harry K. Thaw. He must be eighty by now if he is still living.

I shall never forget a trip that Michael, Tony and I made into the Coeur D'Alene country not far from Spokane. We had been down the Palouse valley to Moscow, Idaho. When we were returning to Spokane we met a tramp who told us of a star route from Wallace, Idaho, to Burke, which he said was good pickings. He should have said "good itchings". It was a hike through a place called Fourth of July Canyon and, as the days were hot, we started about 4 A.M. By nine o'clock we had gone about ten miles when we began to notice small swarms of little black gnats and very large mosquitoes. We kept going till about ten o'clock, when the sun shone into the canyon and warmed up the air, which in turn warmed up millions of mosquitoes that almost ate us up. They seemed to literally fill the air, and we had to tie handkerchiefs over our faces to keep them out of our mouths and nostrils. They were much worse than the ones Baldy and I had encountered over the Louisiana swamp. We turned and ran back down the canyon, but there was no getting away from them until about noon, when the hot sun drove them to cover. For a week afterwards, our necks, ears, foreheads and hands were sore and swollen from the bites and our subsequent scratching.

We returned to Spokane Falls, as it was called in those days. It was touted as "The Heart of the Inland Empire" by real estate promoters. There was a small but very pretty waterfall right in the heart of the city, which the citizens took great pride in pointing out to visitors. We stayed there about a week and then started back toward Seattle. All along the route, on every available barn or other structure whose owners would permit posting, we saw signs of all sizes with the words, "Keep Your Eyes on Pasco." I was told that some large real estate promoters had bought up all the land within a radius of ten miles of the town, had surveyed it into building lots and small farms, and sold these parcels to gullible buyers from coast to coast. Had all the land been built upon, Pasco would have become a city larger than Chicago. From later real estate booms in California, I am inclined to believe that the promoters moved to Los Angeles.

We went as far west as Cle Ellum, just west of the Cascade Tunnel, and then returned to Spokane just because Tony had a yen for the brewery at Weiser. We started for Pendleton, got ditched at a place named Starbuck, and here an incident occurred that illustrates the resourcefulness of tramps in outwitting their enemies, the shacks.

It was midday when a southbound passenger train stopped at the station. We saw it coming before it stopped, and hid behind a section foreman's toolhouse. We saw the shack watching near the engine, and when the train started up and the shack was out of sight we ran and swung onto the blind baggage. The train moved slowly for about two hundred yards and then came to a stop. The shack came forward and ordered us off, and when we dropped off beside him, he gave the engineer the "go" signal .The shack stayed beside us as the train pulled out slowly, and when all but the last car of the train had passed us he swung aboard the last car and waved at us in derision. As the rear end of the last car passed us we stepped between the rails, out of sight of the train crew, and started running after the train. I was the first to catch it, and climbed over the bumper onto the platform. Michael was close behind me. As the train was picking up speed, poor Tony had a hard time making it. Michael stood on the bumper and, with one hand clinging to the handrail, he managed to reach Tony's outstretched hand and pull him aboard. We clambered up onto the deck of the car and lay there until we reached Umatilla junction. As the train pulled in, we climbed down between two cars onto the car's platform, where a few moments later we met the shack who thought he had ditched us for good at Starbuck. I have never seen a person more astonished than that shack. The look of incredulity on his face was amusing, and when the train came to a stop we alighted on the station platform and thumbed our noses at him. He said nothing, but just stared at us as we walked away.

When we related our experience to a bunch of tramps at Pendleton the next day, it brought a laugh. One of them, "St. Louis Slim", told us how he had ridden the blind baggage of a train, in plain view of the cons and shacks, from Pocatello, Idaho, to The Dalles, Oregon. He said that at Pocatello he met an Indian who was wearing a feathered hat, and that he got the Indian drunk on whiteline. After that he stole the Indian's hat, moccasins and blanket, put on the hat and moccasins and, wrapping the blanket about him, sat down on the baggage car platform and stayed there. Shacks either ignored him or offered a word of greeting, and passed on. There were a number of Indian reservations along the line, and it was the custom then to allow Indians to ride without molestation. On several occasions I saw an Indian and his squaw riding that way in plain view of the trainmen.

The day following our arrival in Pendleton nearly proved to be my last. I had always been very fond of canned salmon and had taken a can of it with me into one of these icehouses, where several tramps lay around drinking whiteline. I ate the salmon about noon, and two or three hours later I became violently ill. I suspected ptomaine poisoning, and remembered that mother had told me that ammonia and opium were the best remedies for it. I sent Tony up town to get some laudanum and aromatic spirits of ammonia. While he was gone I had terrible cramps, and convulsions that made me flop around like a chicken with its head cut off. Perspiration streamed from my pores, and during the worst of my agony I fainted.

When I recovered consciousness an hour or more later, I was free from pain but was so weak I couldn't move. All the tramps but Michael and Tony were gone, and they had carried me to a place near the door where there was more light and fresher air. I soon fell asleep and didn't wake up until the following morning. Although stronger, I was still too weak to climb down the ladder, so Tony and Michael rigged up a crude boatswain's chair with rope from the adjoining icehouse, and lowered me to the ground with the block and tackle. There was a small stream not far away, and with their help I was able to walk to it. They undressed me, cleaned me up, and washed my clothes, which were dry by evening.

I ate nothing that day, but the next morning I was hungry and Michael made some soup for me. He told me that Tony had been unable to get the laudanum, but had returned with an ounce of ammonia, which Michael had poured down my throat undiluted, in two doses half an hour apart. He told me that by the time Tony returned with the ammonia he could feel no pulse and detect no breathing, and that my body seemed to be turning cold. He thought I had died, and only gave me the ammonia because I had urged him to do so in case I fainted. Had he not done so, I'm sure I would not be here to tell of the experience. Since then I have been afraid to eat canned fish of any kind.

After leaving Boise we went to Salt Lake City, spending another month in the Cache Valley en route. We then went east on the D & RG railroad, stopping over a couple of days in Grand Junction where a peach festival was in progress. We continued on to Pueblo and then to La Junta and Rocky Ford for the melon festival in September.

Although I was within a hundred miles of Denver and had managed to keep Ella pretty well out of my mind, I was afraid to go home to see mother for fear that I would meet Ella and have my interest in her revived. Instead, we went down into Texas and then to California again. We stayed around San Francisco most of the time because it was the best tramp town on the coast. If a tramp kept off lower Market Street and confined his operations to the less congested districts, there was little likelihood that he would be pinched for begging. Even if he were, he would be given a floater, for at that time the county jail was too small even to accomodate those who were charged with more serious offences. Several old tramps who tried to crash into jail in order to obtain a winter's food and lodging had appeared before "His Honor" several times within a month without accomplishing their purpose.

There were a dozen or more tramp hangouts south of Market Street, which the police raided from time to time when they were in search of a person wanted for a particular crime. They would block the front and rear entrances, line the bunch up against the bar and the sides of the room, and frisk each of us for "gats", after which they would depart without comment. I am certain in my mind that each of these hangouts contained one or more stool pigeons, who tipped off the bulls when a known yegg came among us; at least, their raids seemed to coincide with such events.

Michael, Tony and I usually hung out at "Johnny's" on Howard Street near Third. Johnny had a large room in back of the saloon where those who were too drunk to be put to bed could doss the night out on the floor. Above the saloon he had about twenty small rooms furnished with three-quarter beds, which he rented for two bits. The rooms and bedding were kept as clean as could be expected for the rental charged. Two persons were allowed to occupy one room without additional charge. Michael and Tony occupied one room; but after a night or two there I moved to nearby Hunter Hotel, because the fleas at Johnny's were too numerous for comfort, and the ventilation was practically nil. I paid seventy-five cents more per week; but I had an outside room with running water. The water never ran more than a trickle and was always cold, but the room was fairly flealess. I think I picked off and dropped into the donicker at least fifty fleas the first night I spent at Johnny's.

For the most part, Tony and Michael worked south of Market Street and in the Mission District. Being better dressed than they, I found "north of the slot" more to my liking. There were several clubs-- the Bohemian was one-- in whose vicinity it was comparatively easy to mooch three or four dollars within as many hours. I didn't use any of the hackneyed approaches used by most tramps ("Mister, will you please give me ... "), etc. My approach varied from time to time, but for general use I found that "Pardon me, sir, but may I detain you a moment?" was as good as any. Another that was fairly successful was to ask for the time; and when the Man pulled out his watch I would say, "I'm sorry I had to resort to a subterfuge to get your attention, but the last three men I tried to stop refused to listen to me, and I am really in need of help and advice."

From that point on it was up to me to convince the man that I really was in need of his assistance. My spiels, like my approaches, varied. A moocher, to be successful, has to think just a bit faster than his intended benefactor. In many cases he has to anticipate his victim's reactions as the story unfolds, and stop "pouring it on" the minute the man puts his hand into his trousers pocket, or shows any indication of disbelief or annoyance. I found that an occasional pause in my spiel, to permit the victim to ask a question or two, was very effective if I could respond with a plausible answer.

One of my most effective spiels was to tell the man (I never mooched women on the streets) that I was a craftsman of one kind or another, and that I had come to the city with my wife in expectation of getting work at my trade. I would add that I would have to join the local union before being permitted to work, and that I was trying to find some kind of a job that would tide us over until I could save enough to pay my initiation fee into the union. If there happened to be a union on strike at the time I said that I had been laid off because of the strike, but never that I was a member of the striking union.; as a rule, the people I mooched were not sympathetic to strikers.

Another good spiel I used quite often in San Francisco was to say that I was an Australian marine engineer and that I had been taken ill a couple days before my ship returned to Australia, and that I was trying to get by as best I could until an Australian ship came to port, at which time I expected I would be able to return to my own country.

Glibness of tongue was a liability rather than an asset; and any restraining action, such as holding onto the victim's coat sleeve, was fatal to one's success. A straightforward story, told slowly and earnestly, seldom failed if the man stopped long enough to listen to it. When I laid my spiel, I think I more than halfway believed it myself. If a man showed disbelief and started to turn away, I would say, "I'm sorry you don't believe me, sir, but I thank you for hearing me out." It was not uncommon to have a man, whom I apparently had failed to impress, turn away and walk down the street half a block, then return and slip half a dollar into my hand and wish me luck. It was undoubtedly my final words that brought them back, When they did return, the donation was usually more than I had expected to get. I never mooched a second prospect while the last donor was in sight.

I found the people in San Francisco more liberal than in most cities. On two occasions I was given Trade dollars (a silver dollar somewhat larger than the regular ones); and once a man gave me two new twenty-five cent pieces, which I discovered to be phony and immediately ditched. McNeil's Island didn't appeal to me.

San Francisco was pretty wide open at the time. The Barbary Coast near Chinatown was, I think, under police protection; but streetwalkers were everywhere, and the jails were too full to hold a quarter of them. I became well acquainted with half a dozen or more whom I met on my beat. One in particular, whom I shall call Irene, was a newcomer, and evidently inexperienced; her technique of solicitation was crude beyond belief. She would stop and solicit the most impossible people--cab drivers, a man with an armful of bundles, men walking hurriedly or waiting at the curb for streetcars. I taught her to stand before a brightly lighted and attractive window display, and to make some small comment on its contents to any man who stopped beside her. I told her she would make better contacts with less effort if she just loitered, and that men seeking her profession needed no urge other than the one nature had given them.

She was totally ignorant of the rudiments of disease prevention. I taught her what little I knew of the subject, and persuaded another girl to enlighten her still further. She was grateful to me, and rewarded me with all she had to give. She had only been on the streets for three days when I first met her, and within a month I had induced her to give up the life and go to work. Since then, I have often thought that I would have made a first-class pimp had I been so inclined.