Amigo/Rodeo Sport/Rodeo FAQ's
Where I post answers I find to those oddball questions.
(Note: RS = Rodeo Sport. Term Amigo is used pretty liberally to cover both.)
- Names in other countries
- Model History
- Business Notes/ Company History
- Parts History Info
- Known Issues
|Vehicle: Modification Questions|
Vehicle: Technical Questions
Towing Accessories & Info
In other countries, the 2-door, soft-top version of the Rodeo (and the Rodeo itself) goes by other names:
• USA: Amigo, or Rodeo Sport
• England: Vauxhall Frontera Sport (Rodeo = Frontera or Honda Jazz)
• Europe (minus England): Opel Frontera Sport (Rodeo = Frontera or Honda Jazz)
• Deutschland (Germany) = Opel Frontera Sport (Rodeo = Frontera)
• Japan / New Zealand: Mu (for Mysterious Utility) where the Rodeo is called the Wizard.
• Australia: Holden Frontera Sport (Rodeo = Holden Frontera). The name Rodeo there refers to a pickup truck.
• Let me know any more!
Model History (I am responsible for all errers...correct me if I'm wrong)
Some year to year model changes comes from http://auto.consumerguide.com/ Research vehicle, view vehicle history.
1986: Isuzu sales growing every year until now. Offer Trooper, Rodeo, and Pickup....and I believe a car (Isuzu Impala).
1989: First generation Isuzu Amigo was first released in the US. 4-cylinder, manual transmission only, either a 2.3l carbureted or a 2.6l fuel injected engine. 2 or 4-wd. Packages: S (limited gauges--no tach) or XS (tachometer) models. Soft-top only (I believe) with aftermarket hard tops. Might have been based off their pickup frame; still investigating.
1991: Minor cosmetic alterations
1992: 4-speed automatic transmission became available this year, on all Amigos with the bigger (2.6-liter) engine.
1993: Amigo got a retouched new front grill. Rodeo got the 3.2L engine, only available in the SOHC version. Previously options, the center console, rear seat with shoulder straps became standard. A/C: changed to R-134a.
1994: 2.3L engine went away; the 4-cyc 2.6L engine was the only option. Manual transmission only. A high-mounted (roof top) rear brake light was installed. Power steering/mirrors now standard on all models. Wing Windows discontinued (went to 1-piece windows). Center emergency brake instead of knee-brake.
1995-1997: Only used Amigos for sale in the USA. Otherwise known as "The three years of Darkness."
1998: Second gen Isuzu Amigo was released, based off shortened (10") Rodeo frame. Options: 2 or 4wd, soft-top or hardtop, with either a 2.2L 4-cylinder or a 3.2L DOHC V6. Both automatic or manual available. Cruise control was no longer available for some odd reason. Colored fender flares were a new option. Rear leaf springs replaced with 5-link coil sprung suspension in both Rodeo and Amigo.
2000: The 4WD 4-cylinder manual-shift soft-top model was dropped. A restyled nose and tail appeared, and V6 models came with standard cruise control. Adjustable shock absorbers became optional. A new Ironman package, named for Isuzu's sponsorship of the Ironman triathlon competition, became available for V6 models with the Preferred Equipment package. Intelligent Suspension Control was optional on V6 Ironman Amigos, allowing the driver to choose sport or normal shock damping via a dashboard switch. Previously optional, 16-inch wheels replaced the original 15-inchers as standard equipment. The spare tire now wore a standard plastic/vinyl cover. Throttle linkage changed from direct cable connection to "drive by wire."
2001: Second gen renamed Isuzu Rodeo Sport. The intent was to reposition the compact model as a sportier, off-road-oriented version of its larger--and more popular--4-door Rodeo. Both 2.2L 4-cyc and 3.2L v6 engines now available with either a manual or automatic transmission. The Preferred Equipment package added a rear cargo tray, and V6 models gained 2-speed variable intermittent wipers as standard.
2002: Last year for the Trooper in the USA. Rodeo Sport Second Generation updated. Same as above, but v6 now available in Automatic only. Gas tank in RS went from 19.7 to 15.6 gallons. Best guess was they did it to improve ground clearance.
- "Convenience-Starting Feature" added to Rodeo LS, maybe others (manual, pg 6-4). You don't have to hold the ignition in the "Start" position. Once "start" is hit (and even if the key is released), the starter will crank the engine until it starts. Maximum crank time is determined by coolant temp. A few people who release the key early are freaked out.
2003: Trooper removed from USA lineup. Last year for the Isuzu Rodeo Sport. Added Isuzu Ascender to the lineup. (It's a rebadged Chevrolet TrailBlazer, aka GMC Envoy, Oldsmobile Bravada, Buick Rainier, Saab 9-7x). Isuzu lowered MSRP for their vehicles and simplified the Rodeo plan from S, SE, LSE to simply the Rodeo with some option (Preferred Equipment or Luxury).
- Isuzu prices cut across the board, from 8.25% for the Axiom, to about 8% for the different Rodeos, to 14% for the Rodeo Spot soft top 4-cyc (from $16,375 to $14k) Isuzu accomplished these reductions by eliminating infrequently used features and making some equipment optional-while retaining popular features and making improvements in several areas of every vehicle.
- The Powertrain warrantee was changed from 10 years/120k miles to 7 years/75k miles. (A cut of 3 years/45,000 miles.)
- Roadside assistance coverage has been increased from from 5 yr/60k in 2002 to 7 years/75k miles. Isuzu Roadside Assistance provides lockout protection, flat tire repair, battery recharging, fuel delivery and towing (excluding accident-related incidents) at no charge to the customer.
- These coverage's are in addition to Isuzu's three-year/50,000-mile basic and six-year/100,000-mile perforation from corrosion warranties.
2004: Rodeo Sport dropped from the lineup. Last year for the Isuzu Axiom. The Isuzu Axiom came with the new 3.5L direct injection gasoline engine, and it's an option on the Rodeo. Rodeo gains tire pressure sensors in March, but few (if any) were built. Ascender offered in a five seat model.
2005: Isuzu introduced the new pickup truck mid-year. It's a rebadged Chevy Colorado, complete with GM engines.
Business Notes / Company History
Most of this comes from: http://www.isuzu.co.jp/world/corporate/fandf/history.html, some from AutoNews and the Isuzu Car Site.
|1916||Tokyo Ishikawajima Shipbuilding and Engineering Co., Ltd. and Tokyo Gas and Electric Industrial Co. initiated plans to build automobiles|
|1919||March--Tokyo Gas and Electric Industrial Co. produced its T.G.E. truck under the auspices of the Military Vehicle Support Act.|
|1922||Dec--Tokyo Ishikawajima Ship Building and Engineering completed first domestically produced Wolseley, a model A-9.|
|1934||The truck manufactured up to Ministry of Trade and Industry standards was named "Isuzu."|
|1949||July--Company name altered to "Isuzu Motors Limited" with capital increased to 150 million yen.|
|1966||April--Established Isuzu Motors Co., (Thailand) Ltd.|
|1971||July Signed capital agreement with General Motors Corporation (GM). General Motors Corporation buys 32.4% of Isuzu and subcontracts them to make Chevy Luv pickup trucks.|
|1974||Oct--Unveiled the Gemini, the first automobile produced in cooperation with GM.|
|1975||Jun Established Isuzu Motors America, Inc.|
|1981||Created USA sales network. Sep: Introduced the compact four-wheel drive vehicle UBS Rodeo Bighorn. Also, against the direct protest of General Motors, Isuzu puts the Piazza and Impulse into production, embarrassing GM because the newly redesigned Camaro and Trans Am aren't as sporty as the Giugiaro designed sports coupe. Popular Isuzu opinion is this is when GM begins undercutting Isuzu to get even.|
|1983||March--Aska took the first place in the RAC Rally held in England.|
|1984||GM begins reselling rebadged Isuzu Geminis under the Spectrum name, but, as a condition of the arrangement, restricts Isuzu's rights to advertise their own cars in the US and European markets and imposes quotas on the number of vehicles Isuzu can sell. This effectively destroys any chance for Isuzu to build brand consciousness, brand loyalty, and a reputation as a car builder, in all markets outside Japan.|
|1986||127,630||Peak vehicle sales.|
|1987||Sep--Isuzu-General Motors Australia Ltd. (IGM) was established. Vehicles in Australia sold under "Holden Motors" brand name.|
|1989||• GM begins reselling rebadged Isuzu Gemini Coupes under the Geo Storm name. This vehicle outsells GM's own domestically produced Cavalier, Sunbird, Corsica, and Beretta models--combined. This causes embarrassment for GM.|
• April--Isuzu's production of medium- and heavy-duty trucks (over GVM 6.1 tons) for fiscal 1988 was rated No.1 in the world.
• May--A new type of recreational vehicle, the Mu, was introduced in Japan and the U.S.A. (Amigo)
• Oct--Opening ceremony held for Subaru-Isuzu Automotive Inc. (SIA).
|1991||108,429||• Opened assembly plant with Subaru. New ad agency: Goodby, Silverstein & Partners in San Francisco.|
• Jan--Rodeo was introduced in the U.S. market.
• Dec--Full model change of the Trooper
|1993||• Isuzu stopped selling passenger cars. Jan--The UCS (Mu / Amigo) took prototype diesel class victory in the Paris-Dakar Rally.|
|1994||• GM discontinues their Storm model, eliminating close to 95% of Isuzu sales of cars leaving Isuzu with weak name recognition and little hope of recovering from this financial blow. This combines with the collapse of the Japanese economy after Isuzu went up market to more luxurious and more expensive models with their 1990-93 redesign of their cars. Isuzu decides to discontinue car sales. Isuzu constructs a shrine to the much missed Gemini car in their Fujisawa plant.|
Jan--Trooper won in the Marathon Class and the Mixed Class and finished second in the non-modified stock-standard class at the 1994 Paris-Dakar-Paris rally. Sales of Honda Passport (the U.S.-built Rodeo) started in the U.S. market
|1996||93,888||• Aug--Trooper (Holden Jackaroo) won the 1996 Australian Safari|
|1997||• Mar--VehiCROSS, all round sport-utility vehicle was introduced in Japan.|
• May--The Kingfisher 33, an Isuzu fishing boat, started its sales in Japan.
|1998||• Isuzu attempts to purchase then financially troubled Nissan Motor Company in order to acquire a name and a company to build passenger cars under.|
• June--Wizard (Rodeo) and Mu (Amigo) were completely remodeled
|1999||• March--General Motors raised its equity share in Isuzu to 49.0 percent through a third party allocation. This is a controlling interest, but due to Japanese laws restricting foreign ownership of Japanese corporations and Japanese labor laws which strictly follow seniority, GM is unable to appoint an American to head Isuzu and must continue to deal with Isuzu management's continued resistance to GM domination.|
• April--VehiCROSS debuted in the U.S. market.
|2000||Wayne Sanaghan thinks this is when the Amigo became the Rodeo Sport. July--Diesel engine production started at DMAX, Ltd. in the U.S.A.|
|2001||82,380||Jan--Duramax 6600 diesel was selected as one of the 10 best engines by Ward's Communications in the U.S.A. Isuzu Motors total sales of $10.8 billion, net loss of $2.9 million. (Original numbers in yen. Sales: 1.3 trillion yen. Net loss: 350 billion. Using $1 = 120.5 yen)|
Isuzu lays off 25% of their international work force due to financial losses and ailing sales.
|2002||52,992||• Jan--Duramax 6600 was selected again as one of the 10 best engines by Ward's Communications in the U.S.A.|
• Dec--Fuji Heavy Industries Ltd. and Isuzu executed signatures on agreements to dissolve joint venture at Subaru Isuzu Automotive (SIA) in the U.S.A. under terms of the deal, Fuji will continue to produce about 30,000 vehicles a year for Isuzu to sell in the United States. Isuzu moves their manufacturing to Thailand. This completely withdraws their joint SUV venture with GM, with the exception of the GM Trailblazer which will be rebadged as the Isuzu Ascender.
• General Motors dropped its stake in Isuzu Motors Ltd. from 49% to 12% (or Isuzu bought back 38% in a debt restructuring deal, depending on your perspective). At the same time, GME moves from 49% to 60% stake in a joint venture to produce DuraMax diesel engines in the United States and Europe.
• New ad agency: Malone Advertising, a small retail specialist in Akron, Ohio, with just $80 million in annual billings. Joe Isuzu goes away again. Thanks to the old idiots for the hideously bad "Amigo! Amigo!" commercial.
• Expects sales of $8.3 billion, net loss of $10.8 million. (Original numbers in yen. Sales: 1.0 trillion yen. Net loss: 1.3 billion. Using $1 = 120.5 yen)
|2003||30,328||• Jan--General Motors decreased its equity share in Isuzu to 12.0 percent based on Isuzu's new three-year business plan. Isuzu and General Motors established a new joint venture company called GMI Diesel Engineering Ltd. (GMIDEL) for powertrain systems. |
• Aug--Return to profitability.
• Isuzu finds itself in the enviable position of being one of only three commercial truck producers in Japan who is selling diesel trucks that comply with the new, strict emissions laws for the Tokyo metropolitan area, which require particle scrubbers for exhaust. The law outlaws the use of trucks without these devices in and around the four prefectures surrounding Tokyo, and as no aftermarket retrofit is available, truck operators are required to buy new trucks. Mazda, unable to develop a commercial truck that complies with the new emissions laws, subcontracts all it's commercial truck production to Isuzu. Isuzu leads commercial truck sales in Japan and shows a profit for the first half of 2003 for the first time in decades. Isuzu's stock showed a 300% increase in value. A similar diesel law is coming to the USA in 2007.
• Isuzu releases rendered images of what they call "a sports coupe" which is described to be in the vane of such noted Isuzu cars as the Bellett 1600GTR and the Giugiaro designed 117 Coupe. Isuzu appears back on track to build cars.
|2004||• March: First Turnaround Month! Isuzu stock passes 235 Yen per share, a 470% increase since Spring 2003. Isuzu sold 4,057 SUVs (mostly Rodeo's), 23 percent more than a year ago, on higher demand for the Rodeo model. Market share for Isuzu rose to 0.3 percent from 0.2 percent.|
• Isuzu continues working towards severing all ties (and buying back all stock) from GM by 2007. The Rodeo and Axiom (now made by Subaru at the Lafayette, Indiana plant) will be discontinued at or shortly after the end of the 2004 model year. There will be no serious effort to market the GM made Ascender through the 2005 and 2006 model years, after which Isuzu's contract to sell that vehicle will end. Isuzu plans to introduce at least two completely new models in late 2006, totally designed and manufactured by Isuzu.
|2004||27,188||The Chicken Tax was looking to fall with a free trade agreement with Thailand, the main source of Isuzu manufacturing. Unfortunately, the agreement didn't go through.|
|2005||12,177||Isuzu dealers will get a version of the GMC Canyon pickup beginning in July. The 2006 Isuzu pickup will come in two versions, a 4x2 extended cab with a 2.8-liter I4 engine and a 4x4 four-door cab with a 3.5-liter I5 (Not the Direct Injection v-6). Isuzu also said that U.S. dealers will not get a compact SUV from Thailand that had been expected for the 2007 model year. Isuzu is not bringing the SUV from Thailand because it will not be profitable, said Terry Maloney, president of Isuzu Motors America Inc. Maloney also told dealers that Isuzu will develop a new diesel engine in the 3-liter class that will be sold in the United States. No date has been set for the diesel.|
|2006||8,614||Mitsubishi will now become the largest single shareholder in Isuzu with 9.7% of the stock, followed by trading house Itochu Corp. with 7.2% and Toyota with 5.9%. GM sold all of its stock in Isuzu back in April, which amounted to 7.9%.|
Other Model History Stuff (Parts Information):
89-94 Amigos came with these axle options:
4x4- Rear Isuzu Corporate 12 bolt, Front Isuzu Corporate 10 bolt
4x2 with 2.6L engine - Isuzu Corporate 12 bolt (both axles--"beefier" than 10 bolt)
4x2 with 2.3L engine - Isuzu Corporate 10 bolt (both axles)
98 - 2004: Comes with these axles:
Front- modified Isuzu 10 bolt
Rear- Dana 44, two styles. Some of the new Amigos came from the factory with a limited slip differential in the rear, this would be identified by a G80 code on the option id plate under the hood. See Gears, below, for more info. Rear axle types:
LSD: Limited Slip Differential uses a Standard Dana 44.
Open Diff: Modified (larger) carrier. You can NOT use a lunch box locker. You can make it fit but it would take a lot of thrust bearings (or equivalent) to make the locker fit within the larger carrier. This would mean pulling the locker off of the splines off the axles, but it is only about 1/8 inch. If you want to use a lunch box locker you could get a limited slip carrier and put a No-Slip in it, but then you will have to get the gears reset (back lash, etc.) Otherwise get a locker that replaces the carrier: ARB, OX, Detroit, Electrac (by Tractech).
The 3.2L 6VD1 DOHC introduced ion-sensing, distributor-less ignition. The 2004 3.5 liter introduced direct injection gasoline.
Isuzu built Engines: 3.5 direct injection, 3.2 DOHC, and SOHC, 2.6, 2.3
GM built Engines: 3.1L, 2.8L, both pushrod
2.3L: 4ZD1 4cyl carb
2.2L: X22SE 4cyl
2.2L: X22 or Y22 4cyl
2.3L: 4ZD1 4cyl carb
2.2L: X22SE 4cyl
2.2L: X22 or Y22 4cyl
2.3L: 4ZD1 4cyl carb
2.6L: 4ZE1 4cyl FI
2.2L: X22SE 4cyl
2.2L: X22 or Y22 4cyl
2.3L: 4ZD1 4cyl carb
2.2L: X22SE 4cyl
2.2L: X22 or Y22 4cyl
2.3L: 4ZD1 4cyl carb
2.2L: X22SE 4cyl
2.2L: X22 or Y22 4cyl
2.6L: 4ZE1 4cyl FI
2.2L: X22SE 4cyl
2.2L: X22 or Y22 4cyl
No longer offered
3.2L: 6VD1 v6 DOHC
No longer offered
No longer offered
89-94 Amigo axle:
2.3 L engine:
Manual. Reverse 3.372, 1st 3.431, 2nd 1.968, 3rd 1.364, 4th: 1.000, 5th: 0.855
Rear axle: 4.555
Manual. Reverse 3.873, 1st 3.767, 2nd 2.248, 3rd 1.404, 4th 1.000, 5th 0.809.
Transfer Case (4wd): High: 1.000 Low: 2.283
Automatic: Reverse: 2.703, 1st 2.826, 2nd 1.493, 3rd 1.000, Overdrive 0.688
Rear Axle (and front on 4wd)
2.3 L Engine: 4.555
2.6 L Engine: 4.300 (with standard P225/75R15 tire). With 31x10.5R tire: 4.555
98-02 Rodeo/Amigo/Rodeo Sports axle gears:
4cyl 4x4 = 4.77 (both auto/manual)
6cyl 4x4 manual tranny = 4.30
6cyl 4x4 auto tranny = 4.10
Some good background information.
This thread is related to a direction the "5.38 Iclandic Gears..." thread went in. Specifically, whether a 98+ Trooper rear axle has a Dana 60 ring and pinion gear-set. The short answer is... no. BUT, the more important answer is... almost. The gentleman I spoke with at the Dana Light Axle Division said that they no longer refer to their axles as 44's, 60's, 50's, etc. Within Dana, at least, they differentiate the separate Ring and Pinions by the measurement across the ring-gear (tooth-tip to tooth-tip) in millimeters (they also round up to the nearest whole number).
A 44 is called a 216, a 50 is a 229, and a 60 is a 248. Why does all this make any difference? Because when I gave Paisan's ID numbers (from his stock gears) to him, he looked it up and voila,... 244 (BTW, nice job with the ruler Paisan, 244mm = 9.606in.) The only thing that the Dana tech could figure out was that Dana made a special run of custom diameter gears for Isuzu. By custom I mean, not using any existing gear dimensions.
I almost forgot. This may be common knowledge, but here goes. He also said that the ring-gear for the Rodeo D44 (as long as the ratio is 4.xx or higher) is .240in thicker (on the mounting surface side) than ordinary D44 gears, and that the Rodeo D44 uses a D60 pinion.(??) This, he says, is due to Isuzu only ordering the axle housings for 3.73 and lower gears, regardless of the ratio that would be finally installed, thus necessitating a re-sized ring-gear.
So does this mean that we can't buy ordinary D44 gear sets for our Isuzu 44's? I'm going to have to plead ignorance on this one. He mentioned it in an off-hand way, and I threw it in my post as kind-of a trivia thing.
I believe that pre '98 rodeos have a more standard 44 in them, and the '98+ rodeos/amigos have the hybird set up. I know that Peter P. worked with OxTrax to come up with a kit to retrofit regular d44 gears to the '98+ d44 that Isuzu uses. If you have a first gen rodeo it should be far easier to install regular 44 gears into it.
(Which pulls some info from http://www.outdoorwire.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=68&t=003335)
If you drive a 99-01 rodeo/amigo or 96 and earlier isuzu, the 5.38 gears will fit in your isuzu 10 bolt no problems and for the rear, you need to get a little creative along the lines of what I did (a kit available through OxTrax or DriveTrain Direct). I'm wondering, in a nutshell, what the differences actually are? What's in this kit?
My guess is that this has to do with 'carrier speed,' which is a misnomer referring to the fact that Jeep Dana 44 carriers use a different ring-gear offset (relative to the centerline of the pinion) to accommodate the varying 'head' sizes of pinion gears... and varying thicknesses of the corresponding ring gears. Isuzu seems to have a different carrier break than normal for Dana 44s, since 4.55s fit on the same carrier as 4:10s. I went ahead and measured the inner diameter of the Ring gears and the outer of the Carriers.
1998 Carrier - 4.730 1999 Carrier - 4.789
1998 Ring gear inner diameter - 4.751 1999 Ring gear inner diameter - 4.801
Ring and pinion part numbers - Dana G 47475 No part number is listed on the ring or pinion
I'll post some pictures up later (I'm still not in the digital camera world)
As for the Dana44, I'm not exactly sure about the 96 and under Dana 44's, but from what I know about Curtis' install, he didn't have to go through as many hoops as we did installing my 5.38's. The problem with my install had nothing to do with the ring gear or the carrier, all of that fit just fine. The problem was with the pinion. The 98 Isuzu pinion is much wider then a 'standard' D44 pinion gear. What we had to do was create a sleeve for the pinion gear and order a different bearing for the pinion and I had to switch to a Jeep style U-joint as opposed to the old pinion flange. I will also post a picture soon of the Isuzu Dana 44 pinion, it is a noticeable difference.
When we were trying to put my new gears in, we tried every possible solution until I finally gave up and bought a used third member out of a 99 and then everything went together just fine. As for the axle housings, they were interchangeable from 96 and up (any model with Shift On The Fly) and technically interchangeable with the 95 and under, just that they don't have the SOTF and I think it might be possible to drop one of those in and somehow defeat the 4wd actuator for the SOTF mech.
Timing Belt: What happens if it breaks depends on your engine type. The best resource I found is in the Timing Belt list at the Gates Website. There are two types of engines: One where the timing belt breaks and you stop. The other, the timing belt breaks and your valves are crushed, resulting in expensive engine repairs. Always follow the owners manual, but in general you replace it every 60k miles for the pre-98 models, every 75k for 1998 models an up. The chart actually stops at 1998, but I'm assuming.
Destructive Engine: All four-cylinder Isuzu SUV's of any model.
Non-Destructive engine: 1992 and up V6 (3.2L) engines.
The new distributorless ignition engines still have a timing belt (? or so I'm led to believe by parts catalogs))
1989-1994 MUA5 Manual Transmission. Note that MUA5's are not all equal. From Randy Burlson
Q: Will a Trooper 2.8 MUA5 fit an Amigo 2.6 MUA5 bellhousing?
A: There is no separate bellhousing per se, the front housing of the transmission is cast one piece with the bell. That said, the two motors have different bolt patterns where they bolt to the bell, so no, it will not bolt straight up. There is a good possibility that the front castings could be swapped for each other, and then this would work, but it would take a daring soul to do it, and would be speculation.
1991-present: GM-4L30E which is found in 91 and later Rodeos, and 92 and later Troopers. Stop looking for the dipstick, it's not there.
Inside the transfer case
Good information on Transmission and locking differentials from 4x4wire post.
2005 Transmission / Transfer Case
First, the good. The tranny in the '04 is not the 4L30-E of old. They have switched back to using an Aisin-Warner 30-80 tranny. This is part of the A340 family of trannies and IMO, is a huge improvement over the old GM unit. This is similar to the Jeep AW4, Toy A340F, the old 2.6 auto A340H and lives in various versions behind stuff like Toyota's Supra and the Tundra V8. It's a very good tranny, and yes, it has a dipstick unlike the 4L30-E's did.
The "bad" part is that it no longer used the Isuzu gear driven t-case. It is a chain-drive, planetary reduction box with a disimal 2.05:1 reduction. Not sure who makes it. All hope is not lost though. The tranny/t-case interface looks to be the same bolt pattern as the Isuzu t-case. *IF* the shaft is the right length and 27 spline, then it looks easy to upgrade to an Isuzu t-case w/ Terra gears in the future.
For reference: T-case post and also http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=732265
Known Issues (Rodeo / Amigo / Rodeo Sport): You should always check the NHTSA for recalls. Don't just search "Vehicle," search "Equipment" for the other parts like Radios, tow packages, etc. Some of the dangerous ones are listed below, but NHTSA has the full list. Many of the 98+ Amigo/Rodeo Sport problems are duplicated in the Rodeo. Minor problems that aren't recalls yet can be found at on Tech Service Bulletins. You can view the title for free and get an idea if other people are having the problem. Some info here is from NHSTA, some from Tech service bulletins, some from OutdoorWire Isuzu board, and some from Auto Consumer Guide.
1987-1994 Amigo: Exhaust system shaped like spaghetti, robs power. Solution: New aftermarket exhaust.
Original 2.6 4cyl engine: #1 head casting was crack-prone. #2 head casting supposedly fixed the problem...but there were rumors it continued up as high as #3 or 4.
1990-1991: Engine Mounts: Vibration at idle (unless caused by engine problems) is corrected with revised motor mounts.
1990-1992: The ignition key can be hard to remove because the lens over the shift lever interferes with the shift cable.
1990-1993 Amigo: The air conditioner becomes warmer and might stop working because the evaporator ices up, requiring replacement and repositioning for the evaporator thermostat. Oil leak from the distributor shaft on 2.3-liter engine.
1990-1994 Amigo: Ice can build up under the front fender and, when the door is opened, the door and fender are damaged. A new fender liner is available to prevent buildup. Steering noise: A knocking noise when the steering wheel is turned requires a steering column repair kit. (1990-94) Lack of grease causes squawks in column. (1993-94)
1998 Amigo: Many recalls and problems. See NHTSA link, above. Some key points:
Brakes: The antilock brake system may malfunction. Isuzu conducted a campaign to replace the ABS electronic control unit. See below (1998-Present)
Engine stalling: Engine may stall or fail to start because of a poor electrical ground. Isuzu was recalling vehicles to replace the engine ground wire harness.
Fuel gauge: A faulty fuel level sending unit prevents the fuel gauge from reading full. It is recalled for replacement.
A rubbing noise from the steering wheel is caused by the coil assembly for the air bag. It must be replaced.
1998-1999: The rubber pad on the accelerator pedal may fall off. A revised pad is available under warranty.
1998 - Present Amigo / Rodeo / Rodeo Sport: Many people have reported problems with the ABS system being way too sensitive. There are also suggested fixes to make it less sensitive, and more functional. See this link, or Discussion 1 (with fixes) Discussion 2.
1998-2000 Amigo and Rodeo: Models equipped with 2.2l 4-cylinder engines. The timing belt could break before the recommended scheduled maintenance. Recall date: 06/05/2001 by Isuzu. Engine also tends to die around 50k miles; Isuzu has picked up the cost on them. Also, The rear wheels may vibrate because they are not properly centered on the hubs. A centering ring is available.
1998-2001 Rodeo / Rodeo Sport :
Alarm goes off when cold. It's the tailgate switch. Open the door, take off the 2 Phillips head screws that hold the pin switch on (the one that controls the light) and stick two or three washers behind the switch under each screw.
EGR Valve dies and needs to be replaced far ahead of expected lifetime. Warranty covers it.
Rear Pinion Seal will tend to leak. Warranty covers it.
Lifters: Noisy valves/lifters with the 3.2 engine. Tapping, chattering, or knocking noise when running. No company fix for them, just the way it is. Adam Hart consolidated information on them here. A summary of his summary can be found in the Links page, Maintenance section. I recommend reading the link. Isuzu put out a TSB on the problem.
1998-2002 Rodeo/Rodeo Sport with 3.2 v6 Engine: Stalling / TSB about a leaky intake manifold gasket. Presents itself as a sporadic stalling problem under the following conditions: a. Engine at normal operating temp. b. Low speed or acceleration from a stop. c. 15-20 seconds before shut down, engine feels sluggish like missing fuel. d. The engine stalls and is hard to start but after 3-5 minutes of rest it does perfectly fine and engine runs smoothly. Solution 1: Check computer and reset/check PCM wires. Solution 2: Dealership says most of the 3.2L's they checked for a leaky gasket turned out to have it.
1999 Amigo / Rodeo: Paint was applied unevenly on the rear axles, resulting in insufficient paint hardness. Should this occur on the surface that contacts the rear axle lower link bracket bolt head and/or nut, the nut may loosen. The bolt could detach fully, causing separation of the lower link from the rear axle, increasing the risk of loss of vehicle control. Dealers will replace the rear axle lower link joint nut and bolt
2000 Rodeo/Rodeo Sport: Recall date: 02/28/2001 Certain sport utility vehicles were built with the inflators in the passenger side air bag modules having the wrong amount of generant. In the event of passenger air bag deployment, too much generant can cause the inflator module to explode. If the air bag module explodes, metal and plastic debris could cause severe injury to vehicle occupants.
2001 RS with 3.2 engine: Many report an annoying tap-rattle noise. Conjecture is on the O2 sensor, Isuzu swears its not. Isuzu had several ECU reprograms that were iffy; one in January 02 reportedly dropped the gas mileage around 4-5 MPG. Isuzu says the have have a "permanent" program fix for the problem. It has been tested and is awaiting EPA approval and should be out in March 2002.
2001 Rodeo/RS: Recall on 10/2000 for vehicles manufactured 8/2000. During the manufacture of certain fuel return hoses, incorrect rubber material for the outer layer was used. The fuel return hose does not meet ozone-resistant specifications, and could ultimately crack, causing fuel leakage and fire.
Vehicle--Modification FAQ and Info
Most of the products referenced are on the main Amigo page.
Engine Swaps: What engines can I swap out? See also, "Transmission Swaps." They mate together, after all.
Good info #1: http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/isuzu/fom-serve/cache/104.html
Good Info #2: I'm no expert in this, so here's credit to the guy who did some good research:
Source web page I beat him with my info below, taken from his original e-mail. His page is the best source. The below information was just too good for me to want to risk losing.
Without bolting any parts together here is the result. You can swap your Isuzu engine for any engine that has the same bell housing bolt pattern as the Chevy 2.8L. That includes the: Chevy 3.1 V-6, and 3.4 V-6, Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L DOHC V-8, Cadillac 4.5 and 4.9 Pushrod Northstar V-8, Cadillac 4.5L DOHC Northstar V-8. This swap applies to ANY of the Isuzu Family of 4x4s from 1988 to 2002. Here is how.
For the 1st gens from 88-91, with 2.6L Manual, install a 2.8L MUA5 transmission and bolt up the new engine.
For the 1st gens from 88-91, with 2.6L Automatic, exchange Bell housings from a 2.8L automatic and bolt up the new engine.
For the 1st gens from 88-91, with 2.8L Automatic or Manual bolt up the new engine
For the 2nd Gens from 92-02 with 2.6L, 3.2L, or 3.5L, Manual, install a 2.8L MUA5 transmission and bolt up the new engine.
For the 2nd Gens from 92-02 with 2.6L, 3.2L, or 3.5L, automatic, exchange bell housings from a 91 3.1L Rodeo automatic and bolt up the new engine
Although I lean toward Troopers in this process, you can see that If you own an Amigo, Rodeo, or a Pup the swap will work for you.
That's it!!. As with any swaps there will be many complications and you have to be prepared for them. For example with the DOHC V-8 swaps, one of the bolt hole tabs on the bell housing does not line up with the bolt hole in the engine block. That tab can be cut off and rewelded on to the bell housing in the correct location. Also the starter may touch the top of the bell housing, the bell housing may have to be relieved in that area (see pic at this link, and scroll down to bell housing modification. Click for larger pic.)
The Isuzu computer should be able to drive the fuel injection for the V-6 swaps. For the V-8 swaps you might want to get an after market computer and computer wiring harness. Check with http://www.chrfab.com/index.htm for a computer, and a flywheel.
Please remember that I have not done this swap, the above is just for planning purposes only. Before you begin any swap be sure to research your project thoroughly. Good Luck, Bruce http://www.cableone.net/bcanderson/
Gearing & Tires: Gear information, crawl and why should I re-gear when I get bigger tires.
What are they, and what is my crawl ratio?
Final Drive = (Tranny Ratio) x (Transfer Case Ratio) x (Axle Ratio)
How many times the engine has to turn the 1st driveshaft to rotate the axle/tires 1 revolution.
First Gen manual Amigos and pickups all have the MUA5 tranny with a 3.767 first gear and a 2.28 transfer case ratio. to the best of my knowledge they were only available with 4.55 gears stock, though some have upgraded to 4.77s.
The early Amigos with 4x4 all came with 4.55:1 axle gear ratios, 2.28:1 4Lo transfer case gear ratios and a 3.767 1st gear in the tranny. Here's a list of the combined gear ratios to find your final gearing. Also added in are the numbers for the upgraded gear sets for the front and rear axles. Note: Diff = Differential.
Final Gearing -- Stock
Final Gearing -- with the tera low Xfer-case gears.
Moving to larger tires (Stock 29 inch to 32-35 inch) usually results in re-gearing the differential ring and pinion. Here are the pros/cons/why's.
Larger Tire Pro: First and foremost, ground clearance. This is what makes it all worth the hassle. Nothing raises the differential off the ground except larger tires. You also have a more gradual curve, allowing more contact with the object you are trying to grip (and possibly climb). The engine has to turn less to move you and equal distance forward. Better mileage in all the gears (but you still suffer a net gas mileage loss...see cons).
Larger Tire Con: Larger tires have more weight, higher profile, and give the vehicle a larger cross-sectional area, leading to more wind resistance and less mileage. (Overall, larger tires generally give you lower mileage). The larger radius means the force turning the center axle has less radial torque applied at the road. In addition, the engine turns more slowly to move you the same distance forward, meaning you have to rotate heavier wheels with less available HP and torque at any given engine RPM. Robbed once by physics, then a second time by the slower engine!
Not only do you have less acceleration, you may have a hard time maintaining speed in 5th gear, especially going uphill on a highway. In the lower gears, you will have a hard time crawling slowly over rocks, which may involve some lugging or clutch burning. Finally, your speedometer will be off since the speedometer gears are set to match the stock tires.
What Regearing does: Regearing the differentials (you must match both, or when you put it in 4wd you'll snap something) will bring RPM's closer to stock (preferably above) range where your engine will make greater HP and torque.
If you regear with stock tires, you still gain (offroad). The engine will turn more RPM's at any given MPH speed, and more RPM = more torque and HP to get over things. When you regear you may lose some top-end speed, but your engine will thrive more under driving conditions found on the trail.
Regearing will restore speedometer accuracy and also make the ECU (which is built around the stock gear/tire ratio) perform like stock. If you go to larger tires and don't regear, you will be running your perfectly tuned engine at less than optimum levels since the ECU will always adjusting for a different performance than it's "seeing," hurting performance, gas mileage, and engine life.
Ignition System Upgrades: Why does a bigger spark give you more power from your gasoline? Here's a common sense way to think about it: When two cylinder motorcycles get to 1100cc (which is 550cc per cylinder jug), they switch to 2 spark plus per 550cc chamber. Why would they do this when it means a more complicated system? First, remember your physics gas laws:
¤ Pressure * Volume = k (fixed constant) * Temperature
¤ As the volume goes down, pressure and temperature increase.
¤ When the spark fires, it makes a huge percentage increase in pressure. The higher the pressure is at combustion, the more power you get. (More efficient the conversion from chemical fuel to physical motion.)
¤ Now, think of a huge 550cc jug at max compression, and slow down time because the spark makes a fire that burns outward to the cylinder walls rapidly, and and engines turn fast:
==> Motorcycle with Single plug per cylinder (think car cylinder with small spark): In the motorcycle example, a single spark fires and starts the ignition cycle in the fuel around it. This causes heat-expansion of the fuel-air mixture, and and the piston is pushed down as the fire starts burning out from the spark point. As piston moves down, compression decreases and the continued burn is less efficient at providing power than the initial spark. In addition, not all of the fuel is burned. In a nutshell, the longer it takes to burn the fuel, the less efficient the process is.
==> Motorcycle with Multiple plugs per cylinder (think car cylinder with larger, more distributed spark): Using the same motorcycle 550cc jug, think of splitting the cylinder head into two halves. Now put one spark plug in the center of each half, giving you two evenly spaced spark plugs per chamber. At max compression, both halves of the chamber are sparked, starting ignition. Compared to the single spark plug, twice as much fire is started at the high compression point, providing quicker burn, faster expansion and more power. In addition, more fire in the same space of time means more total fuel is burned.
==> Car/SUV Ignition Systems: The number of spark plugs per cylinder is pretty much fixed in the Amigo/Rodeo/Rodeo Sport. I don't know anyone gung-ho enough to manufacture a new cylinder head and ignition system. If you can't add more spark plugs, you can add more power to your spark.
Ignition -- Distributorless / Coil-On-Plug / Ion Sensing Ignition
Coil-on-plug technology means reliable cold-starts, more stable long-term characteristics, and reduced sensitivity to fuel quality and climate conditions. Above all, by being a better and more sophisticated ignition system, it laid the foundation for future engine development where it is possible to use the conventional spark plug also as a combustion sensor. The use of the spark plug as an intrusive sensor during non-sparking stages offers a low cost and robust solution because no separate sensor has to be introduced. For many functions in an engine management system, other sensors can be removed (i.e. knock sensor, rough road sensor, cam sensor). The functions that were introduced initially were cylinder identification and pre-ignition detection. Basic patents (1984) and actual application (1985) have been around for a while. Faster computing speeds allowed greater analysis, and in 1992, knock detection and misfire detection was introduced.
The ion sense ignition subsystem consists of one ignition coil per cylinder together with a high-temperature, vibration-resistant engine mounted electronic module, utilizing hybrid circuit board technology. The system has no moving parts or high voltage leads, assuring maximum energy supplied to the spark plug. The spark plug is used as an actuator to ignite the air/fuel mixture, then as a sensor to monitor the combustion process. Once the spark is over, a DC voltage is applied which biases the spark plug gap. If ions or free electrons are present in the gap, current will flow in the gap - the current is then measured by the system.
By utilizing an individual direct in-cylinder measurement of combustion, misfire detection is possible over virtually the entire engine speed and load range, and knock detection is improved through individual cylinder sensing. System cost is reduced through the elimination of knock, camshaft position and rough road sensors.
Isuzu/GM/Delphi’s challenge was to make ion sensing work with inductive ignition systems, which provide a longer spark and hence lower emissions than rival capacitor discharge (CD) systems. The solution was to limit the spark duration to around 600µs (still around 10-20 times longer than provided by a CD system) and to initiate combustion more efficiently by increasing the current.
Good Tech info/discription. http://www.fs.isy.liu.se/~larer/Projects/main.html
==> General Lift Info:
(This bullet needs help and clarification; information may not be accurate) When you lift your vehicle, you might need new shocks. Front: You will always use the stock size shock. Cranking the torsion bars doesn't change the shock length, only the position at which the truck rides. For the rear, depending on how much you lift the vehicle, you will need longer shocks.
When lifting vehicles, many people have had shaking and shuddering. The problem comes from the two-piece drive shaft that Isuzu uses. Replacing the broken bearing runs about $250. Replacing the whole thing with a custom, solid drive shaft should run less than $200. Click here for a discussion on it. This one talks about prices: About $100 for a custom shaft, $250 for one with flanges set to drop in.
On a live axle, coil sprung rig, the panhard rod (or rear track bar) runs from the frame on one side to the axle housing on the other side. It locates the axle left to right. The trailing (and leading) arms locate the axle front to rear. A suspension lift changes the geometry by raising (but not extending) the panhard rod. Extension brackets will keep the geometry the same, since the stock panhard rod itself cannot be lengthened. Similar to the relay rod on the front end of a lifted, leaf-sprung, live axle rig.
==> What lifts are available for my Amigo, and how high can I go? Safe, relatively easy total is about 6 inches.
Body lift: When you increase the height of your body from the frame using rubber, polyurethane, or metal spacers. This type of lift does nothing to improve ground clearance but may allow you to fit larger tires and/or gain more wheel articulation. It's cheap (about $100).
Suspension lift: Lifts the frame from the axles. You increase the ride height by installing taller springs and related suspension components. This usually includes new shocks, control arms, longer sway bars, track bars, etc. This type of lift is a true lift providing you with increased ground clearance (except at the differentials). It also allows you to fit larger tires. It can cost from a few hundred to the thousands in parts and labor, depending on how high you want to go.
Spring lift (or Chris Perosi Lift): What a lot of us do here. Not quite a true suspension lift, but just by adding taller rear coils, adding a leaf or taller shackles (for leaf sprung rigs) and cranking your front torsion bars, you can lift your truck a considerable height. This is a cheap way to lift your rig and can be done for a few hundred bucks. Technically this is a suspension lift. The reason you need suspension parts (control arms and trackbars and such) are to correct alignment, which may not be affected if you don't lift too high.
Tire Lift: After raising your vehicle, larger tires increase the overall height of your rig as well as raising up your lowest point, the differentials. The frame rails can be lifted up two feet in the air, but the axles are stuck at 8 inches. Lifts and tires work together but it's ultimately the tire that lifts the lowest points of the truck.
Power: How can I get more power out of my engine? The first gen Amigo was pretty underpowered even with the larger 2.6 engine, but there are a few things you can do to help. You will never make a 1st Gen 2.3 equivalent to a 2nd Gen V6 (205 HP), but you can make substantial improvements. The most important thing to see is the Performance Mods on the main Amigo page; this just summarizes what all the links tell you.
Exhaust System: The first thing many people look at is the exhaust. The early Amigos came with a complex, restrictive exhaust system. When I put mine on the lift, people would look at it in amazement--it started at the front, came almost to the back, turned around 90° to the front and ran through the catalytic converter. It than turned around 90° again and ran to the back, thru the muffler, and out.
You can buy an exhaust header, you can buy catalytic converter-back exhaust systems. You can also take your Amigo to a good exhaust shop where you can have a very nice 2-1/4" exhaust built that will not only be straighter and more free flowing but will be much higher up and less likely to get damaged off road. Expect to pay about $300, money very well spent in my opinion.
Air Intake System: You can get a complete intake system with a cone filter from Calmini or Injen, or just put in a K&N stock replacement filter, either one will help a bit. If you want to just stick a cone filter on the end of the MAF, most model's inlets are 3-1/4". I'd measure or ask to be safe.
CamShaft -- Buy a higher performance cam or have yours reground. Calmini offers a mid-high cam where as Delta offers a low and a mid-high cam as well as a stock replacement. No dyno tests known. All of the power gains mentioned here are either seat of the pants estimates by those who have installed these cams, or manufacturer claims.
Ignition System: Jacobs Electronics and MSD offer competing products. Both work essentially replacing the coil with a higher power one. Jacobs on mine offered a noticeable increase in power; I have no experience with MSD.
Engine Computer System: They are available and one company claims substantial gains, but I don't know anyone who has done this.
Super/Turbo Charging: You can put in a turbo-charger or super charger. This involves the most work of all.
Soundproofing: Click here for more sound proofing information.
Supercharge vs. Turbo Charge. What's the difference? What's best? Click here for more info.
Tires: What size tires can I fit on my Stock Amigo/RS? (Also scroll up a little and see "Gearing and Tires")
1st Gens: You can fit up to a 32 x 11.5 x 15 tire on the stock rims without rubbing or lifting. To run anything larger you will need to lift the truck AND trim the wheel wells.
2nd Gens: You can fit a 265/70R16 without rubbing and if you trim the fender flare very slightly at the rear corner you can fit a 265/75R16. This is comparable to a 32x10.5. If you keep the stock 16" rims you can fit a 32" metric tire but if you go to 15" wheels you can only fit a 31x10.5R15 because of the width.
Transmissions -- Which ones can I swap with. See also "Engine Swap," above.
This information taken from: http://wrangler-forums.net/showthread.php?t=4740 The information was too good to risk losing, and he presents it in more detail wit pictures. Here it is in summary form.
The following vehicles share the same case-to-bellhousing bolt pattern, leading to a number of possibilities when a 5-speed is desired.
• Jeep/Dodge AX15 5-speed, and the Jeep NV3550 5-speed
• Toyota R150F & R151F and the 87-92 Toyota Supra Turbo R154
• Isuzu AR5
• Chevy Colorado\ GMC Canyon MA5 5-speeds
From his pictures:
#1. Novak Enterprises: Adapter plate for AX15 to GM 4-speed bellhousing. Connects all except NV3550 to same.
#2. 94-95 Dakota 2.5L bellhousing: Connects all to any K car based 2.2L-2.5L L4 in a RWD application.
#3. 96-00 Dakota 2.5L bellhousing: Connects all to any Jeep 2.5L L4. Because of it's GM 60 degree V6 inherited bolt pattern, also works with any Buick FWD V6 and supercharged V6, any Chevrolet 2.8/3.1/3.4 V6, any Cadillac 4.1/4.5/4.9 V8 and with a minor modification, any Olds Aurora DOHC V8 and Cadillac DOHC Northstar V8. Also bolts to any Isuzu 3.2\3.5 DOHC V6.
#4. 88-99 Jeep 4.0L L6 bellhousing: Connects all to any AMC 290/304/343/360/390/401 V8 and any 72 and later 232 L6 and 258 L6.
#5. 94-99 Dakota 3.9L V6 Bellhousing: Connects all to any 3.9L V6 and any 273/318/340/360 V8.
#6. 96-04 Toyota Tacoma 3.4L V6.
#7. 86.5-92 7M-GTE
- 01-03 Jeep Liberty 3.7L V6 bellhousing: Connects all to any 3.7L V6, 4.7L V8 and 5.7L Hemi V8.
- Isuzu Trooper 3.5 V6 AR5 bellhousing: Connects all to any Isuzu 3.2\3.5 V6
- 04 Chevy Colorado\ GMC Canyon MA5 bellhousing: Connects all to any 2.8L L4, 3.5L L5 and 4.2L L6
- Advance Adapters: Bellhousing for AX15 to Chevrolet-Buick-Olds-Pontiac V8 and Buick V6. Connects all to same.
- Advance Adapters: Adapter plate for AX15 to Ford bellhousing. Connects all to same. Also they have a plate for the NV3550 to do the same.
- Suzuki Only Supply: Adapter plate to bolt R series to Suzuki 1.3\1.6.
Jeep AX5, Toyota G52, G58, W55, W56, W57 and W58 5-speeds all share a common face pattern on the case. As such, any 88-99 Jeep 2.5L bellhousing (NOT Dakota) will bolt a Toyota W series transmission to a 60 degree GM bolt pattern.
Advance Adapters makes a bellhousing to bolt a W series Toyota trans to a Chevy-Buick-Olds-Pontiac block.
Northwest Off Road makes a bellhousing to bolt W series to Ford 5.0.
Suzuki Only Supply: Adapter plate to bolt W series to Suzuki 1.3\1.6.
NOTE: Input shafts lengths vary.
Pre 1995 R150\R151 = 6.5" -- 1995 up Toyota R series = 7.5" -- AX15 = 7.5" -- 87-92 Turbo Supra R154 = 7.25" -- AR5 = ? -- MA5 = ? -- NV3550 = 7.5" -- AX5 = 7.5" -- Toyota W series = 6.5"
Last thoughts: Advance Adapters makes an extra long pilot bearing when using a shorter input shaft tranny with a bellhousing that had a longer one. Obviously you can't put the longer input trans into a bell that had a shorter one.
Front bearing covers are interchangeable between the Toyota R series, AX15, MA5 and AR5. NV3550, AX5 and W series are not interchangeable.
One of the offshoots of this is the ability to swap an AX5 behind a Jeep 2.5L with a heavier duty AX15 by using the 96-00 Dodge Dakota 2.5L bellhousing.
Automatic Locking Hubs on the Isuzu: When do they lock/unlock? This taken from the Isuzu 4x4wire discussion board., and one PlanetIsuzoo post. They are reporting on 1998-2001 Amigos.
PlanetIsuzoo/Tad: I learned that when the engine is off in a 2.6 auto, the truck IS NOT in 4wd. I was parked on a slight incline. Engine was off, truck in park, parking brake set. All of a sudden the truck started to slide. The rear wheels were sliding in the snow, and the front tires were rolling. Nothing happened, however there was potential for damage. (Might be due to electric shift-on-the-fly)
4x4 Wire: The owners manual procedure for unlocking front auto hubs is to shift into 2H and back up 3 to 4 feet. It has been my experience that the hubs don't lock when you engage the transfer case until you have rolled forward 3 or 4 feet.
==> When does 4WD actually engage? We went to a spot full of slick red clay and got to a spot where 2 wheel wouldn't move the vehicle, shifted into 4, and tried to proceed. It didn't shift immediately into 4WD just like I thought. However, just a short moment after the rear wheels began spinning, the fronts CLUNKED and began pulling without rolling any distance at all.
To summarize: If you are in 2wd and get stuck with the rear wheels spinning free, you can shift into 4wd and the front hubs WILL lock. The front hubs lock because if the rear wheels can spin, the drive shaft can spin. The drive shaft will spin the front CV shaft, locking the front. It doesn't take more than a second or two for the hubs to engage once you go into 4wd. (depends on speed)
==> I was in denial when Chris Perosi told me auto hubs lock in one direction, then when you change directions they unlock then lock again in the opposite direction. I finally got off of my butt and decided to test it. Jack up the front if your truck. Just enough to get one tire off of the ground. Put the truck in 2wd for this test. Now, rotate the drive shaft in one direction. You will see the CV shaft start to turn, then almost immediately the hub will lock and the wheel will turn. Stop turning it. Now, rotate the tire in the same direction that it was going. The drive shaft will turn because the hub is still locked. Now, rotate the tire backwards. The hub will unlock.
Second test: rotate the drive shaft forwards. Have someone put a small amount of pressure on the tire - just a little drag like it would have in the rear world. Now, rotate the drive shaft in the other direction. The hub will unlock (with a nice click) then about 1/2 of a rotation (of the CV shaft or maybe 2 rotations of the drive shaft) the hub will lock in the other direction.
So when you are rocking yourself out of a stuck with automatic hubs, the hubs are locking and unlocking, all the while slamming into and out of engage.
==> The kind of manual hubs used on Isuzu's lock based on the movement of the CV shaft. If you're in 2wd they never lock because the shafts don't move. They only lock in one direction at a time, though. If you switch into 4wd and pull forward, making the CV shafts move forward, they lock going forward. If you stop and shift into reverse then the rearward movement of the CV shaft will unlock the hub from it's "forward locked" position and lock it going backwards. There is not a lot of lag time.
==> Final comments: I did a lot of rough trails with my auto hubs, including Holy Cross city, and I'd say they're a perfectly acceptable locking hub for pretty much anything. I prefer my manual hubs because I don't get that lag time when I don't have 4wd when shift from forward to reverse (or when you just back up a few feet to try an obstacle again) but I didn't replace mine un til they wore out. They work great when they are locked. They work great when the c-clip doesn't pop out of the groove. When they are being rocked back and forth however, manual locked hubs are better.
Check Engine Light: Why does my check engine light keep coming on? The check engine light is one of the most useless gauges known to man, especially on the 1st Gens. My 1st Gen flickers on every once in a while when I go over a bump, but other times will take heavy abuse and stay dark. Sometimes it flicks on for no known reason, the goes back out. Unless it stays on for a long period of time (say, several days) don't even pay attention to it, and even then, don't worry about it much.... Only worry if it's FLASHING, That indicates a serious problem. It'll come on as it pleases (due to some test that it might fail, like for instance, riding the brake while it's in gear, which you may tend to do off-road) but it goes off only after certain conditions are consistently met, and only after a certain number of on-off key cycles. The check engine light used to actually mean something on older cars and trucks but now it's pretty much entirely emissions or computer related. OBD scanners or your dealer can read it out if you really want to know. You can also go to http://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/ to pull out and decipher the codes.
Gear Reduction: http://www.off-road.com/hummer/tech/gear.html What it is, how it helps.
Heim and Johny (or Johnny or Jonni) Joints: Both used for connecting moving parts with non-moving parts.
==> Heim Joint: An extremely rigid articulating joint, commonly known as a "spherical rod-end," used in any precision linkage. Heim joints are often used in the suspension links of race cars because they locate wheels very precisely. One end in a fixed rod can swivel on two axis. Some are greasable, some aren't. They found their way into the Racing scene some years back. Any Speed Merchant worth his salt builds his chassis with them in the suspension. Very popular for "A" arm joints found on cars at "Indy", "F1", "Nascar", "Sprints", and Off Road Racers in all forms. They are threaded like a bolt and give almost infinite adjustment. Pricey, but long lasting. If you ever have a need for a long shifter linkage you can get them in all sizes and very handy. Pictures can be seen here.
==> Johny Joint: Johnny joints are simpler and only move in one axis. They are essentially a bolt through an eye at the end of a rod, with some protection for them on the side.. Pictures can be seen here.
==> General Comparison / Use: The Heim can last longer than the Johnny joint, requires less maintenance and has better operating angles than a Johnny joint which is perfect when you consider how much twisting takes place at the point of connection at the top of the rear axle. However to make all the axle connections via Heims can cause a bit too much flexibility in the axle and in a dual purpose vehicle is not recommended since it could be squirrelly at highway speeds.
Horsepower or torque, what's more important?
Depends on what you're looking for. Torque-Horsepower Explained or for the application / what's more important, scroll down Power Mod FAQ until you hit that the HP/Torque section.
O2 System: How do I get the O2 sensor light to turn off after I change the sensor? The O2 light is programmed from the factory at certain mileage intervals, so even if you change your sensor before the light comes on, it will still turn on when you hit the correct mileage. To turn off the light you have to take off the instrument cluster. On the back next to the Speedo cable input there will be two holes that are connected by a trace on the circuit board. One will have a screw in it the other will not. All you do is switch the screw from one hole to the other and the light will turn off. You will have to repeat this process every 90k miles, as this is when the computer is programmed to turn the light on.
Towing / Tow Straps: "There's no such thing as too much tow strap." Just ask anyone who's been stuck without one, been just a couple feet too far away from the end of one, or had one break. Here's some guidelines (not rules) that will help.
Guideline 1: You can't eliminate risk when using a tow strap, you can only reduce it. (If there was no risk, there would be no fun!) These steps are about reducing risk.
Guideline 2: Avoid the 10k's, get 20k or 30k. The cost a little more, but worth it in the long run. If you do use 10k's, try to double up on them, or just be aware and pull steady and gentle. No jerking! (Actually, good advice for pulling out with any strength strap.)
Guideline 3: Avoid putting straps around the trailer ball. People do it, there are rarely problems, but when there are (strap slip off or ball snap off), you don't want to be the one with a half-pound jagged steel ball flying at you at 200 mph (if the tow strap doesn't cut you in half first). Get yourself a good hook or hitch with a pin. Hooks and hitches pull straight, and have both all the bolts and the friction of the two plates holding them together. Putting a tow strap on a ball has all the stress on one bolt, pulling across it's weakest axis. Remember Guideline #1--this is about reducing risk.
Guideline 4: Cutting the strap. When you pull out a vehicle, you are putting an incredible amount of force across the small area where the strap mounts to the vehicle. Try to get the loop as open as possible to distribute the force. Pushing the strap in the receive and securing it with a pin works, but the strap will be bent almost 90° around a thin pin. It will work in an emergency, but it's more likely to cut through the strap than if you looped it around something larger. (If you have a receive hitch mount shackle, you use the same pin but it's a lot less likely to cut through metal. The pin will give out first). Remember Guideline #1--this is about reducing risk.
Guideline 5: Put something over the strap when pulling (like a bunch of towels or floor mats). That way if something does break, the strap (and any metal attacked) just falls to the ground instead of flying through a nearby person and killing them. Many drivers have been injured when the towed rig's metal mounting point snapped off, and the metal was launched through the tower's window.
Towing A Vehicle: With an automatic, and 4 wheels on the ground, you can safely tow a car/SUV roughly 15 miles and up to 35mph without disconnecting anything or damaging anything. Anything above that speed or longer than that distance, you need to hook it up to a car dolly and disconnect the rear driveshaft. If you do it on all fours, then you might need to disconnect both shafts. The problem with towing an automatic, without disconnecting the driveshaft, is that it relies on the engine turning to pump the transmission fluid around and lubricate everything. A manual transmission has the gears sitting partially in the oil and relies on splash lubrication, so just towing them will lubricate them. With an automatic, your best bet is to either put all of it on a trailer, or disconnect the driveshafts (making sure to secure them well), or to put it on a car dolly and disconnect the rear driveshaft so it doesn't spin the front gears.
How the EPA calculates mileage
Ever wonder why you don't get the mileage listed on the sticker? Here's how it's tested, from the EPA website / documents. Note that I did the best I could with the long, dry, and strangely repeating government regulation. (Note: simplified. See link for full info and formulas). NOTE: This is prior to the 2008 change that slightly reduced mileage by adding in higher speeds, faster acceleration, and more extreme temperature..
The EPA does not test most vehicles. Automakers do, using EPA standards, and tell the government the results. It's not even always necessary to conduct tests, according to federal regulations: "In lieu of submitting actual data from a test vehicle, a manufacturer may provide fuel-economy values derived from an analytical" calculation approved by the feds. The EPA randomly tests vehicles to keep car companies honest but gets to only 15% of new vehicles each year.
Both Tests: Driver (or passengers) have no weight. Never travel over 60 mph. Lights off (loads down the alternator), A/C off, windows up for minimum drag and power loss. No hard acceleration. Drive in warm weather (the testing room is 75 degF). Engine is already warmed up. All driving on flat roads, with no congestion. Subtract out un-burnt gas that goes through the system.
City Mileage: The city test is approximately 11 miles long and is a stop and go trip with an average speed of about 20 miles per hour (mph). The trip lasts 31 minutes and has 23 stops. About 18 percent of the time is spent idling (as in waiting for traffic lights). A short freeway driving segment is included in the test. The engine is initially started after being parked overnight. Vehicle operation is on a chassis dynamometer through a specified driving cycle.
Highway Mileage: The highway fuel economy test is designated to simulate non-metropolitan driving with an average speed of 48.6 mph and a maximum speed of 60 mph. The cycle is 10.2 miles long with 0.2 stops per mile and consists of warmed up vehicle operation on a chassis dynamometer through a specified driving cycle.
To calculate MPG: (d) For gasoline-fueled automobiles, calculate the fuel economy in miles per gallon of gasoline by dividing 2421 by the sum of burnt gas ejected from tailpipe.
To summarize, the vehicles are run on a dynometer where wind is "factored in." They also don't account for a family loading it down with body weight and gear. Typical city stops are every 90 seconds where you gently accelerate to 40, then slow down to 0, driving like you have an egg between your foot and the pedals.
For highway mileage, you start from zero, then drive at an average 48.6 mph, max 60 mph. Stop once and repeat. Who do you know that drives on the highway at 55 mph? Here in Texas, I'd get run over. I-10 in west Texas at night looks a lot like Mad Max.
Force of Air Drag = (1/2)*(Drag Coeff)*(air density)*(cross sectional area)*(velocity^2)
You can't affect any of them except velocity...and it shoots up as a squared function. Gas consumption at 75 mph (the speed limit in New Mexico and Arizona) is much greater than consumption at 55 mph. (I read once the best thing to do when low on gas is travel at 45 mph for your best mileage in a high gear).
We might have a case to go back to the dealer and demand a refund on all unburned gas caused by the inefficiencies of the engine that prevented us from getting the documented mileage. For a 93 Isuzu Amigo 2.6L the EPA has the following data: (City/Hwy/Combined)
ISUZU AMIGO 4WD Estimate: 18 / 21/ 19 Unadjusted: 20 / 27 / 22
I never did figure out what "unadjusted" meant and got tired of trying to find it.
Hybrid Car Owners Complain of Faulty Mileage Estimates
http://www.npr.org/features/feature.php?wfId=1897037 Csaba Csere, editor-in-chief of Car and Driver Magazine, comments that car companies have to report the mileage reported by the EPA test. Sll vehicles perform below their EPA mileage ratings in real-world conditions, but hybrids more so. When the law was put in place, government never though that car companies would want to report a LOWER gas mileage.
Additional info from USA Today (2004 article)